Saturday, October 10, 2015

October 9 - Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli, and Portofino


Today we anchored off the little Italian town of Santa Margherita Ligure for a day on the Italian Riviera.  We booked a tour which took us by boat to the abbey of San Fruttuoso, the fishing village of Camogli, and Portofino.
A gorgeous sunrise!

It was a little chilly as we sailed out from Santa Margherita in our tour boat but the sun came out and warmed up nicely.  San Fruttuoso is a small Abbey on a little bay accessible only by boat or a grueling hike over the mountain from Portofino.  We only stopped in the bay for a photo op and then continued on to the fishing village of Camogli which is built on the Golfo de Paradiso.  The village is fairly interesting because the buildings are all painted in trompe l’oeil.  What appear to be intricate marble window frames are in fact illusions.  The buildings are also unusual because they have a narrow alley-type entrance which slopes uphill.  Inside is a narrow open courtyard that all the apartments overlook.  There are no balconies.  The design developed so that if marauding pirates came ashore, the only access was through these little alleys.  Once inside the pirates were subject to being pelted by rocks, boiling oil  or boiling water and there was no place to take refuge from this. Now the courtyards are draped in colored lights and flags, quite unexpected.
Abbey of San Fruttuoso
Inner courtyard in Camogli
Trompe l'oeil decoration on the buildings


We reboarded our boat and headed to Portofino.  This is a small town which is apparently favored by the rich and famous.  It’s on a little cove and is accessible via boat, a narrow road from Santa Margherita, or of course, your private helicopter.  It literally is a tiny village, not at all what we expected.  Despite its size, every other shop seems to be a designer one like Gucci, Dior, Louis Vuitton, etc.  It’s definitely a high-end place.
Portofino


After a walk around, we headed back to Santa Margherita our starting point.  This village has a nice promenade along the waterfront with lots of cafes and restaurants.  We picked a restaurant and had a great lunch.  My fish was so fresh I think it jumped from the sea onto my plate. We had a salad composed of sliced fennel and sliced orange with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. It was fantastic!  I never would have thought of combining those ingredients but I will do so in the future.  After a little walk along the promenade to work off lunch, we headed back to the ship and spent the rest of the afternoon on our veranda watching the fishermen working nearby.
The seaside promenade in Santa Margherita
Statue of a famous Ligurian (Christopher Columbus) along the promenade.  He's pointing to the west.


In the evening we had been invited to try a new menu by the chef with whom Seabourn has formed a relationship.  He is Thomas Keller and evidently he has several famous restaurants in California and New York.  We sat outside in the restaurant and  had an interesting meal.  I actually think I prefer the regular fare served, but I suppose it’s good to try different things.


This was our last stop in Italy.  Tomorrow we’ll be in Saint Raphael on the French Riviera.

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