November 7 - Home, Lemons and Lemonade

We had an uneventful trip home. The flights were on time and our wonderful neighbor picked us up at the airport. Today I went across the street and collected our mail from our other great neighbors, Sandra and Don, who take care of things when we’re gone. How wonderful to have such great folks to rely on!

Now for a summary of our cruise. We have been on many voyages and each has been great. I think a large part of the trip has to do with the expectations you have before you go. We always expect to have a wonderful time and always have had one. I’ve read comments from some of our fellow passengers and their experience was different. On this Ruby Princess cruise we encountered nothing but crew members who were cheerful, hard-working and eager to help. The food was better than what we remembered from the last cruise or two. The weather was mostly cooperative. We don’t mind days on the ship when we feel some motion. I guess we are fortunate that we don’t suffer from motion sickness. We have actually been on some cruises where we were disappointed because we felt as though we were in a hotel on land not a ship. On this cruise there were bouncy days which we enjoyed.

We don’t go to many shows or activities but from the daily patter there appeared to be many things to fill one’s time. The ports that we visited were incredible. In each place there are many new things to visit even if you’ve been there before. Sadly, Princess has dropped Lisbon from the transatlantic next year. That’s a shame because it is a wonderful city.

One of the best parts of this cruise were our fellow cruisers. We had a lot of friends who were also sailing and the time we spent with them is, as they say, priceless! I find the friendships that we’ve made cruising to be one of the most wonderful things about the whole experience. On this trip we sailed with people we first met in 2005 and it’s like sailing with family.

Cruising is great!

November 5 - The last sea and Cruise Day

Well, this is it – the last day! The wind has kicked up again and we have some chop again. We go for our last breakfast in Sabatinis. I shall miss the mimosas and the apple turnovers. After breakfast we met our trivia team and played the final morning game. We won!! It’s funny, but the last time we did this cruise we played together and we won the last morning as well. Prizes were a fridge magnet and a lanyard! It’s not the prizes that count. It’s the fun of winning plus the companionship with Bill and Irene and Bob and Flora.

After trivia we did a packing marathon. It’s easier to pack for the trip home but we acquired a few things along the way so we have an additional bag. We were in a hurry to finish because we had invited the Gang of Eight for a leftovers party. We had all accumulated wine, cheese, crackers and cookies and other goodies which needed to be consumed. We managed to do a good job with what was left! When you have good friends and a great ambience, every wine tastes great!

Tonight we went for our last dinner at Sabatinis again. We love the venue and decided it was the place to be. There has been discussion on the Cruise Boards about the new menu at the restaurant. We love it. Add to that the fact that we have had special things prepared for us and we are happy campers!

This has been a lovely cruise. The weather has been mainly cooperative except for our day in Cannes. The service has been exceptional. The food has been good and the company has been outstanding. But now we’re ready to be home.

November 4 - Still at sea

Our first sign of life since the Azores
The trike garage!

Today was a little warmer and more sunny. It was also almost absolutely calm this morning. From our balcony first thing this morning we saw the becalmed sailboat in the photo. This was our first sign of other life since we left the Azores. It’s always amazing that we traverse this ocean without seeing other ships. Since the nice weather continued we decided to try the Sanctuary this afternoon. The Sanctuary is all the way forward on deck 17. It’s shaded and has the most comfortable loungers. It’s easy to fall asleep up there. We both read for awhile and then played a game of Scrabble.

In the late afternoon we went up to Skywalkers, the lounge perched all the way up and aft. The view from there is spectacular. As we looked out the windows we noticed the kids deck below us and saw the “trike garage.” There aren’t many kids on this cruise but the trikes were lined up and parked in anticipation of the Caribbean and holiday cruise season coming up.

November 3 - The last formal night

Hard to see, but this is a really long ship!

A sea day again. The chop has subsided and the ship isn’t moving as much. Tonight is the last formal night and I decided to get my hair done. Somehow I can never get my hair to do what these stylists can do.

Tonight we went to Sabatinis with what I have dubbed the “Gang of Eight,” two of our fellow Virginia couples and our honorary Virginians from the Chicago area. We had a great dinner and managed to be the last people to leave the restaurant.

I should mention something more about this place Sabatinis. It’s one of the alternative restaurants up on Deck 16. I think it is the most beautiful restaurant I have seen on a ship at sea. There are windows looking out to both sides of the ship and to a little terrace with fountains. It is a truly wonderful venue, but that’s not what makes it so special. What really does the trick is the staff. Marius from Romania is the Head Waiter and he does an exceptional job. He has been at Sabatinis for 4 cruises that we’ve done and he takes exceptional care of us. The team that works with him does a great job as well. I don’t know what I shall do when I’m home and not pampered like this.

November 2 - In the Atlantic

Our balcony - a nice place to spend a lazy afternoon!

Another sea day and not much happening. We are in our routine. We have breakfast in Sabatinis starting with Mimosas (I will miss those at home!). We play trivia with our friends. Our scores are improving but we haven’t won yet. We play Scrabble for awhile. We spend the afternoons reading, checking e-mails and lazing on the balcony. We’ve had some chop in addition to the rollers so the ship has been doing some bouncing around. We don’t think it’s too bad but there are people who are subject to sea-sickness who are feeling it.

Tonight we went to the Crown Grill for dinner. That’s the steakhouse on board. We have eaten there twice already, one time excellent, the other not as good. Tonight everything was absolutely superb. Our food was cooked to perfection and the chef came out to talk to us. We couldn’t have asked for a better experience.

November 1 - Another Sea Day

The long rollers are still with us. When we first woke up it was more cloudy than not, but the skies began to clear and became partly sunny. We’ve settled into our sea days routine of a leisurely breakfast followed by trivia with our team of Virginians and Scots. We haven’t won yet, but we have fun nonetheless. Today’s winning team received fridge magnets. We weren’t really heartbroken that we didn’t get them.

At noon we went to the traditional dining room for our group’s luncheon. 205 people had signed up but only 125 came. It was too bad because the staff had set tables for that many people. Nevertheless it was a pretty good turnout and we had a lovely time chatting with old and new friends.

Since there’s not a lot to talk about in terms of things going on, I shall tell you more about our ship. It’s more than 900 feet long and weighs (in gross tonnage) 113,561 tons. It carries approximately 3400 passengers and a crew of close to 1500. There are three main dining rooms, a buffet restaurant and two alternative dining venues. There are numerous lounges, a theater, a library and even a wedding chapel. There is no lack of activity most any time of the day or night. People who worry about being bored with multiple sea days needn’t do so. The problem isn’t finding something to do, it’s deciding which things to choose since you can’t possibly do them all.

October 31 - Halloween at Sea

We sailed yesterday evening from the Azores around sunset. It was our last port before the cruise ends in Ft. Lauderdale. As we headed west for six days crossing the Atlantic we could see the lights of Sao Miguel and some nearby islands for quite a long time.

Today it’s water, water everywhere. We are always amazed that once we begin the crossing we rarely encounter another ship or any sign of life until we approach the Bahamas. It’s as if we are the only people on Earth here in the midst of this ocean. I always wonder how it must have felt to the early explorers as they set sail and had their last glimpse of land. I can only imagine that it must have been both thrilling and frighteaning since they often had no idea what awaited them as they sailed onward.

Our day was partly cloudy with some long rollers which move the ship around a bit. We played some scrabble and lazed around until 3 PM when we went up to Skywalkers, the lounge atop the aft end of the ship. Our group had a Halloween cocktail party there. We didn’t wear masks or costumes but some of our friends were really decked out! I would say that most of them outdid themselves. It was nice meeting some more of the people with whom I’d been chatting online for many months. We planned to stay for only a little while and wound up sitting and talking until nearly 6 PM. For dinner we ate with friends from Delaware and enjoyed both the company and food, especially the former.

I should add that the ship was decorated for Halloween as well. There were orange and black balloons around and many of the day’s activities were geared toward Halloween. There was a pumpkin carving demonstration in the atrium and a costume parade and competition among other things. All in all it was a very nice first crossing day.

October 30 - Punta Delgada, Azores

Cows everywhere!
Houses at the bottom of the cliff - I wouldn't want to drive down there!
Part of the garden at the overlook, Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego
A lighthouse at the northeastern corner of the island
The beautiful waterfall at Achada on the north coast
The mill powered by the cascading water from the falls
A typical Azorean church

This morning we approached the island of Sao Miguel after sunrise. This island is part of the Azores Archipelago which is an autonomous region of Portugal. By 10 AM we were moored at the very nice cruise terminal right downtown in Punta Delgada. Once ashore we met our driver and guide Rudy and set out for our tour of the island. We told him that we had been here a couple of times and what we had seen on previous visits so he set out to show us something different.

We headed east under very cloudy skies. A little about the weather on Sao Miguel. The temperature doesn’t vary much all year, only perhaps 15 or 20 degrees. The humidity is always high, never going below 80 %. Because of this the island is very lush with many varieties of vegetation. There are also many pastures with lots of cows. The Azores produce and export milk, cheese and beef. The cows stay in their pastures not going into barns at night and are milked in the fields.

We made our way along the coast to Vila Franco do Campo and then headed inland to Furnas and the lake there. As we climbed into the hills it became extremely foggy and there were no views to speak of. We had been to Furnas the last time we visited so we only made a brief stop at the lake and at a place where we could look down on the village. Then we were off again, this time on a dirt road which ran through the countryside. We traveled for a long time on this road which was lined on either side by some species of maple trees. Along the way we passed some farmhouses and lots of cows. At one point the road intersected a mountain stream which Rudy forded. Fortunately it hadn’t rained a lot or it might have been impassable. When we got back on a paved highway we found ourselves as far east as one can go on the island.

The road we followed up the eastern coast was amazing. This end of the island has some mountains which are nearly 1000 meters high and which basically plunge down to the ocean. It reminded me a lot of the Napali Coast in Hawaii. The road wound around the mountains with spectacular vistas at every turn. We stopped at an overlook that was breathtaking.. The Azoreans are really into picnics and barbecues so all along the roads there are picnic areas with barbecue pits. At this particular overlook, Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego (which means literally “The View from the Point of Peace”), there was a beautiful cultivated garden with flowers, palms, topiary in the shapes of a variety of animals and an overlook that was magnificent. The drop-off from the railing went down hundreds of feet to the beautiful blue ocean below. At the bottom we could see a few small houses and we asked Rudy how people got to them. Just before reaching the overlook we had passed a very steep road and he told us that was a new road which people used to access the houses below. Before that was completed people rode on donkeys down a trail.

Our next stop was Nordeste, the furthest town away from Punta Delgada. It’s also the terminus of a new highway which was being opened that very afternoon. We continued on the old coastal road that followed the northern shoreline. Each of the little villages we passed through had a church built in the traditional white with black trim that is seen everywhere on the island. As we passed through the towns we noticed how clean everything was and how brightly painted many of the homes were.

Our next stop was at a park at the waterfall at Achada. While not a tremendously large one, it was very picturesque as it tumbled down through the forest and rocks around it. A walkway followed the course of the stream below and went to a mill at which people can come to grind grain. Nearby the government has renovated an old building which has a bar and restrooms. There is a lovely pond with choi and picnic areas all around which are evidently well-used on weekends especially in the summer.

We continued along the northern shore past the tea plantation before heading back to the southwest across the island for our return to Punta Delgada. It was interesting that we saw a lot of traffic going in the opposite direction. Rudy told us that it was probably people heading out to Nordeste to the end of the new highway. He said that probably they wanted to be among the first to drive on it after the Governor opened it officially. As we approached downtown Punta Delgada we came upon a large traffic jam. Despite the narrow street cars were parked all along the edge (half on the sidewalk, half on the street) and people were walking down the road. We asked Rudy what was going on and he told us that a new store had just opened and apparently the Sunday entertainment was going to the new store – a home improvement one. As we finally got past it we could see that it was indeed packed with people. Lowe’s, eat your heart out!

We arrived back at the terminal with time enough to stop in a shop and buy some Azorean tea. I’ve mentioned in the past that this is the only place in Europe that grows tea and it really is quite good!

Anyway, I’ve rambled on enough. It was a beautiful day on a beautiful and very interesting island. People who stop here and never leave the town are truly missing one of the most scenic places we’ve been.

October 29 - A Day at Sea and the Ultimate Ship's Tour

Today was a day at sea but it was not really restful. We were able to go on the Ultimate Ship’s Tour which took all afternoon. We gathered at 1:15 PM in the Princess Theater and met our guide Eric, Assistant Cruise Director. Our first stop was backstage where we saw the lighting , scenery and costumes for the production shows on the ship. The work that goes into making these things seem effortless is quite remarkable.

Our next stop was one of our favorites – the Forward Mooring Station. In this space near the bow are the lines and anchors which are used when we come into port. The anchors weigh 18 tons and each shackle of the chain weighs something like 250 pounds. Interestingly the anchor is not what holds the ship in place but rather the amount of chain which is played out. When the lines are in place and secured to the dock, no one is allowed in the area because if a line snaps it can kill a person.

Next stop was the Galley and food storage areas. The galley was spotless and the amount of food produced each day boggles the mind. Each day between 180 and 220 gallons of ice cream are made. 4500 pastries are produced. (Notice I remember the good stuff!) There are 29 food storage areas including meats, poultry, seafood, fresh produce, etc. The ship orders all its meats and seafood from the US 2 months in advance and it is delivered by the container load. Produce is done every 14 days. The operation is incredible, but then they are feeding approximately 5000 people including passengers and crew.

Next we went to both the Photo Shop and the Print Shop. These facilities produce thousands of photos and papers each day and are essentially around the clock operations. One of the things we were impressed with in all the areas we visited was the tremendous work ethic of the crew members and also their wonderful attitudes.

We made a short stop at the Engine Control center which is in the middle of the ship. The Chief Engineer explained to us that there are 6 generators onboard – four producing 12 Megawatts of power each and 2 producing 8 Mw each. The ship is able to generate enough power to run a small town.

We stopped at the Medical Center and met the Chief Medical officer, a South African doctor. The facility is small and can handle many things but not major surgery. The doctor told us that the response time on the ship is less than 5 minutes which is better than most places on land. They are able to send X-rays to the University of Texas for second opinions when needed. I suspect that if an emergency came up when we were in mid-ocean they would deal with it by communicating with a land-based medical facility for guidance, but I don’t know that for sure.

Our next stop was the Laundry. What an incredible operation! The laundry handles thousands of sheets, towels, tablecloths and napkins daily. For the linens there are automatic ironing machines and folding machines. Additionally all the uniforms of the crew and laundry sent by passengers is handled. How they keep it all sorted out is beyond me!

Our next to last stop was the funnel of the ship. Inside the steel framework which forms the Princess logo, are a multitude of pipes. Al went all the way up; I chickened out. The port side is where air is taken into the ship and the starboard where it is exhausted. The exhaust coming out of the engines is at 800° C. By some means it is cooled and the noxious materials are removed so that it won’t hurt anyone as it is expelled. Also in the stack area are what are essentially two locomotive engines which could provide power to the ship in the event of a catastrophic failure of the generators below.

Finally, we went to the Bridge where our Captain, Tony Yeomans, greeted us with champagne and chocolate covered strawberries. We took a group photo and then individual photos of each couple with the captain. A young bridge officer showed us the equipment on the bridge and explained about the operations. One of the things we found amazing was that when we went through the Straits of Gibraltar we were on autopilot. This was astounding to us because of the volume of traffic going through there. After getting a thorough tour the captain came back to answer any questions we had. He is a very charming man.

The tour was well worth the cost and we received a bunch of mementos. Perhaps when we’re home I’ll try to scan in a couple of the photos we received and upload them here. We were not allowed to bring our own cameras with us.

October 28 - Lisbon and Sintra

Fishermen seining on the river as we sailed to Lisbon
The Pena Palace at Sintra
The Plaza of Commerce and Trade with its beautiful government buildings
The 25th of April Bridge with the Statue of Christ overlooking the city of Lisbon
The Monument of the Discoverers commemorating Portugal's many intrepid explorers
The Belem Tower guarding the approach to the city

After a bumpy night as we made the turn around the southwestern coast of the Iberian peninsula to make our way to Lisbon we entered the mouth of the Tejo (Tagus) River for our journey to our next port. Off the port side we saw lots of small fishing boats dragging nets behind. As noon approached we could see the 25^th of April Bridge which spans the river connecting Lisbon to the city of Almada on the southern shore. The bridge is a magnificent suspension structure which people compare to the Golden Gate Bridge because of its similar color. Approaching it is awesome because we had the feeling we couldn’t make it under, but we had at least several feet to spare!

After docking and being cleared for disembarkation we made our way ashore to meet our tour guide Alfredo. When we were all assembled we headed west to Sintra. Along the way he pointed out several sights within Lisbon, including the former home of Portugal’s Viceroy of India when they still had colonies there. The man evidently made a fortune dealing in diamonds and decorated the outside of his home with diamond shaped structures all over the façade.

The drive to Sintra took about 45 minutes. This lovely place is where the royal family of Portugal had atheir asummer palaces. The first summer palace was constructed by a King John for his English wife. She was not accustomed to the heat and humidity of Lisbon, so he decided to build her a place which might more closely resemble where she came from in England. In the mid-19^th century the consort of Queen Maria of Portugal, Ferdinand (a German prince) commissioned the building of the Pena Palace which was our destination today. The Palace sits atop a small mountain and is accessed via a very winding road through a lovely forest. The Palace looks like a fairy-tale castle with its turrets, ramparts, arches and multicolored tile decoration. The last queen of Portugal spent her last night at the Pena Palace before going into exile when the monarchy ended in 1910.

After a short visit we headed down the mountain. Sadly we didn’t stop in the village of Sintra. It is a wonderful traditional Portuguese village with lots of interesting shops. Many are decorated with lovely tiles and many signs are made of copper and brass. We shall have to make a return trip to Lisbon so we can spend some time in the truly charming village.

As we made our way back to the city we stopped briefly close to the Jeronimos Monastery for a traditional Pasteis de Belem. Then it was back to the ship. As we left the dock we had a wonderful view again of the old section of Lisbon including the Commerce Square surrounded by ornate government buildings. The sun was setting and the old city was bathed in a golden light. The church domes seemed luminous as they shone in the twilight below the Castle of St. George at the top of the Hill. The bridge looked even more reddish gold and the setting sun set on the statue of Christ on the far side of the river. It’s a copy of the same statue in the harbor in Rio da Janeiro. A little further down river we passed the Monument to the Discoverers, built and completed in 1940 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Prince Henry the Navigator and the famous Belem Tower. Half a day is not nearly enough to do justice to this jewel of a place.

October 27 - A Day at Sea and Passage through the Straits of Gibraltar

Today we had a much needed sea day. We slept a little later and had a leisurely breakfast. It was a little overcast, but not raining and the temperature was comfortable. Today our course would take us along the coast of Spain to the Straits of Gibraltar around 7 PM. We could catch glimpses of the Spanish coast but nothing in any detail because we were too far offshore.

After a couple of games of scrabble we went back to our cabin to get ready for a wine and cheese party. We had invited some friends over and we had to get set up. Room service delivered glasses, plates, and fruit. We had wine and cheese we had bought in our earlier ports and our friends brought bottles as well as olives, more cheese, iberico and Serrano ham, crackers and biscotti. We had enough wine and food for double the people there! After several hours of good socializing everyone left for their evening dinner plans. I think a good time was had by all.

Shortly after we commenced our transit of the Straits which separate Europe and North Africa. In ancient times they were called the Pillars of Hercules. On our starboard was the Rock of Gibraltar, a British possession and to our port was the Moroccan coast, only barely visible because the captain brought the ship much closer to Gibraltar for the scenic views. We learned a couple of days later when we did the Ultimate Ships Tour that we were actually on autopilot going through the straits, despite the many ships traversing the same waters. We also learned that while the ship’s speed was set at 22 knots we actually made 17 knots because of the strong currents running from the Atlantic side. While it was not a clear day we were still able to get a really good view of “The Rock.”

Following the transit as we entered the Atlantic Ocean we began to feel more significant wave action which continued throughout the night. We are among the lucky ones who are not affected by the motion so we had a lovely day and night.

October 26 - Barcelona

A Vendor at La Boqueria Market

The weather gods decided to favor us today. . We slept a little later this morning since we had no organized tour. After a nice breakfast we took the ship’s shuttle to the World Trade Center. Some friends came along with us and we began our stroll up Las Ramblas. Las Ramblas is the beautiful main avenue in Barcelona. As we walked through the tree-lined middle of the street we passed the mimes and vendors. Some of the mimes are absolutely wonderful!. It was a gorgeous sunny day with the temperature in the high 60’s or low 70’s.

Our first stop was La Boqueria Market. I am so in love with markets! The variety of food available almost provides a sensory overload. How I wish we had such a place at home. We wandered around taking lots of photos and savoring the smells. There were a few things we wanted to buy, but we decided to come back later in the afternoon so that we didn’t have to carry them with us.

We crossed to the other side of the street and headed into the Gothic Quarter, the oldest section of the city. The streets are narrow and winding and lined with little shops and bars and restaurants. We found our way to the Cathedral of Barcelona (not the Sagrada Familia). The building is an old Gothic one. In front of the main entrance is a portion of the original Roman wall. In fact some of the structures sit on remains of the original Roman settlement. There was a long line to go in the cathedral so we decided to forego that and wander some more before heading to our favorite tapas restaurant. Along the way we encountered a street performer making huge bubbles. They were quite beautiful. The restaurant, Taller de Tapas, is in a small square next to another little church. We got a table outside and proceeded to feast on a variety of tapas dishes. Most of you probably know what tapas are, but for those who don ‘t they are literally “small plates.” You order several and share so everyone has a taste of a variety of things. We had shrimp, squid, mussels, iberico ham, dried beef, and fried shaved artichokes among other things. As we ate an accordion player appeared and began playing some typical songs. It was interesting to watch him. He kept looking all around as he played and one moment we saw him and the next it was as if the pavement had swallowed him up. Two policemen came strolling through the square and we realized then the musician was keeping a sharp eye out for them. As soon as they had passed he reappeared as if by magic and continued playing.

After a nice lunch we headed back to the market. We bought some cheese and torrone (almond candy). Then it was time to make the leisurely stroll down the street to the shuttle pick-up point. Barcelona is a wonderful city. I think it’s probably my favorite of those we have visited on the cruise so far.

A bridge between the Bishop's residence and the Cathedral
The Back of the old Gothic Cathedral
A Street Artist making lovely, sparkling bubbles

October 25 - Cannes

St. Paul de Vence from the road leading to the town

A glass blower in Biot

Not many photos today. It was dark, gloomy and very wet so we tried to spare our cameras.

This morning we arrived at 7 AM at our station for the port of Cannes. It was dark (sunrise was at 8:00 AM), raining and windy. Because we were sheltered from the wind the ship was able to commence tender operations and we were on the first one to go. With our friends we had booked a private tour with Sylvie di Cristo. Once she arrived we set out for our rainy day visit to Provence and the Cote D’Azur.

On the drive through Cannes we passed the classic hotels which have been settings for many movies and the designer shops lining the street. As we made our way to Antibes along the coast road we could see the waves crashing on the beach and blowing over the seawall. We were hopeful that the wind wouldn’t pick up too much where the ship was anchored. If it did, the captain might suspend tender operations and we’d find ourselves ashore for longer than expected.

In Antibes we had planned to visit the market in the old town and do a little walking around there. It was raining quite hard and few vendors had set up in the market so we just drove through. Sylvie took us on the road that runs on top of the old city wall so we had a rather nice view of both the sea and the old church.

Next stop was in Biot. We went to La Verrerie de Biot, a glassblowing place and museum of glass artworks. There were a number of glassblowers working and we watched for a few minutes. It’s always so interesting to see these craftsmen at work. There were lots of things for sale and we bought a couple of hand-blown glasses which were different from anything we already have.

Next we made the short ride to St. Paul de Vence, one of my favorite places. Because of the weather the view of the town as we approached was not nearly as dramatic as when we’ve been there on a sunny day. As we arrived at the gates, the sky opened and it began raining cats and dogs. Additionally there was quite a bit of wind. Intrepid travelers that we are, we pulled up the hoods on our jackets and broke out the umbrellas and began our walk through this beautiful medieval town. It is such a lovely place filled with art galleries and lovely artisan jewelry stores. Unfortunately since we were quite drenched we really didn’t want to go in and drip all over the places. After a walk of the entire length of the main street we headed outside the walls to a nice, dry lunch. A guide from another tour provided some entertainment for everyone in the restaurant. She had a voice reminiscent of Edith Piaf and she sang some of her classic French songs. It was all very nice.

Sylvie had planned for us to visit Les Hauts de Cagnes, another of the stone medieval villages which is less visited by tourists. Because the weather was so bad we opted not to walk there. Instead she drove us through what streets she could and we had a taste of what we missed. Les Hauts sits perched atop a hill. At the very top is the 14^th century castle built by the founder of the Grimaldi family. The Grimaldis are the rulers of Monaco (Princess Grace was married to a Grimaldi). The streets of the old part of the village are like being transported back to the middle ages. I see that we shall have to go back there again one day.

Then it was back to the ship which was waiting for us. Sadly as we sailed we began to see glimpses of blue sky. Oh, well, as the French say “Such is life.”

October 24 - Siena and San Gimignano

The Piazza del Campo in Siena

Today we arrived in Livorno and were picked up by our driver and guide Ileana, arranged by Rome Connections for us. Ileana is an art historian so her knowledge of the area and its sights was excellent.

Our first stop after approximately a two hour drive was Siena. Siena is famous for, among other things, the Palio, an exciting horse race done in the center of the city in the main square (which is actually an oval). Siena is divided into 17 neighborhoods or contrades and these each field a horse and rider. Because there are so many, they actually run two races – one in July with 10 and a second a few weeks later with the other 7 and 3 picked somehow to ride again. The outside roadway of the square is covered with sand several inches deep just for the race and the center of the square is packed with people as are the balconies and windows of the surrounding buildings. It must be a very exciting event to see.

After visiting the Piazza del Campo our next stop in Siena was the cathedral, Santa Maria Assunta. The church was constructed in the 13^th century and the exterior includes some of the black and white marble stripes seen in other cathedrals such as the one in Orvieto. The truly remarkable thing about this cathedral are the magnificent mosaic floors. They were created between the 14^th and 16^th centuries and consist of 56 panels in different sizes covering the entire floor of the Duomo. They represent scenes from the Old Testament and are covered most of the year so they can’t be viewed. We were very lucky to see them uncovered and in their full glory.

Il Duomo - Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta
Two of the magnificent mosaic floor panels

Our next stop was a winery in San Gimignano, Tenuta Torciano. It’s located in a very pastoral setting a few minutes outside the city. We had a wonderful lunch complemented with several lovely wines produced by the winery. They also produce a wonderful balsamic vinegar and some lovely olive oil, one of them flavored with black truffles. We had a delightful time and bought some wine, oil and vinegar which will be shipped to us. I think most of our fellow travelers did likewise.

Finally we visited San Gimignano. This small medieval hill town is famous for its towers which can be seen from miles outside the town. At one time there were more than 70 towers but now only about 14 remain. The town is an exquisite walled city with splendid medieval buildings. Some are former towers which were cut down and converted into houses with the additional bricks being used to construct other buildings. After we walked the main street which passes through the entire town it was time to head back to the ship. We could see that one could easily make a trip just to San Gimignano and have lots to see and do in a day tour.

On our way back to Livorno we had a few raindrops but our day ashore was wonderful with great weather.

San Gimignano

October 23 - Tuscania, Bracciano and Ceri

Lunch in Ceri
The village of Ceri perched on its little hill
The view of Lake Bracciano from the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi
The church of San Pietro in Tuscania
An Etruscan sarcophagus dating to approx. 700 BC

We arrived in Civitavecchia, the port for Rome, around sunrise. Since it was a Sunday and we had been to Rome a few times, we opted for a tour outside of the city. We were met ashore by our driver Marco of RomeConnections and off we went.

First stop was Tuscania. While there is some evidence of people in this little city in Lazio (same region as Rome) dating back to the Neolithic age, there are many artifacts from the Etruscans, the precursors of the Romans, c. 700 BC. We went first to the Etruscan Museum in an old monastery. On display there were many old sarcophagi from nearby tombs and many bronze and ceramic pieces found in the nearby countryside. The sarcophagi were quite beautifully carved. The other premier site in the town is the church of San Pietro. It’s a Romanesque church no longer in use built in the 8^th century and renovated a few hundred years later. It has a lovely rose window and some beautiful columns with a variety of capitals.

Our next stop was the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi on Lake Bracciano. The lake is a volcanic crater (some 600 feet deep in places) and one of the largest in Italy. The castle is a museum and one of the most beautiful examples of Renaissance military structures. It has become quite famous because some celebrities have rented it for weddings, including Tom Cruise when he married his current wife. The museum has many interesting military and Etruscan artifacts. The views from the ramparts of the castle of the lake and surrounding countryside were breathtaking. The tour of the place, though, is not for those with any mobility issues because there are quite a few steps.

Finally we drove to Ceri. This picturesque town is perched atop a hill and walled. To get there we had to drive on a hairpin turn street with a traffic light keeping traffic operating only one way at a time. At the top we went to a lovely, and very popular restaurant for a traditional meal of wild boar with pasta. Both the views and the food were outstanding. After a very enjoyable and educational day we drove back to Civitavecchia.

A comment about the weather. This is the latest we have done this cruise and these ports and we have had exceptionally nice weather in our opinion. The temperatures have been in the high 60’s which are perfect to us for doing lots of walking.

October 22 - Napoli

A magnificent mosaic in a villa in Herculaneum. Can you believe it was buried in mud for more than 1700 years?
One of the breath-taking vistas along the Amalfi Coast road
A 2000 year old street in Herculaneum

This morning we arrived bright and early in Napoli. Despite the weather forecast for cloudy and periodic rain we had a spectacular day. We met our friends ashore and our driver Biagio was waiting to take us on our tour for the day.

First stop was Herculaneum. This is a town which was destroyed during the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D. While Pompeii was a working class city, Herculaneum was a more upper class resort town by the sea. While Pompeii was covered in ash and pumice and other pyroclastic material, Herculaneum was buried in a tremendous mudslide which occurred after the volcano erupted and subsequently there was tremendous rain. The city remained buried and forgotten until the 18^th century when it was accidentally rediscovered. Serious excavation didn’t begin until the late 19^th century. Because it didn’t succumb to tremendous heat, many things remained intact. Some of the houses still have beautiful murals and mosaic floors from which one can discern the beauty that must have existed. We learned a couple of interesting statistics from our guide. The average life expectancy of a Roman of the era was 41 years. The average life expectancy of a person after becoming a slave was 14 years.

After an interesting and educational visit we proceeded through Sorrento and on to the Amalfi Coast road. The drive is spectacular and not for the faint of heart. I know we could never make the drive ourselves. Around each turn the vistas of the tremendous cliffs with the sparkling blue sea below can take your breath away. Our first stop was Positano, one of my personal favorites. Our driver recommended a restaurant at the bottom near the beach. The walk down was steep with some steps but the payoff at the end was worth it. We ate at a place called La Campusa. The restaurant was open to the delightful sea breeze. I think we all agreed that each of our selections were very good, and the house wine was pretty good too!

The walk back up the hill helped to work off our lunch. Next stop was Amalfi, home to one of my favorite ceramic shops. Along the way Biagio told us a little about the history of the coast. From 700 to 1100 AD (roughly) the area was the Amalfi Republic and was one of the wealthiest states in the Mediterranean because of its extensive trade. Its wealth attracted the attention of Saracen invaders. As the towns were attacked, the people moved their towns further and further up the sides of the mountains. They also built a series of watchtowers both for defensive purposes and to act as signal towers to warn the populace of attack. One can see the remnants of some of them on rocky promontories along the way.

After wandering around Amalfi for awhile we followed Biagio’s recommendation and had a lemon gelato with limoncello in the middle of the bowl. What can I say? Yummy!!

Then it was time to head back to Naples to reboard our ship. It was a splendid day in Naples.

October 21 - A Day at Sea and the Meet & Greet

This morning we arose to a lovely day. Seas were moderate; temperatures were comfortable. After breakfast at Sabatinis we got ready for the Meet & Greet. We had been corresponding for 19 months with a large group of people on the Cruise Critic forum and today was the day we would finally meet old friends and new ones. With 422 people on the “Roll Call,” we had to change venues to accommodate so many. The turnout was excellent (approximately 290 people) and the Captain made an appearance to speak briefly and field questions. It was very nice seeing old friends and meeting new ones that we had previously only met online.

We spent the afternoon just chilling out. Al sat on the balcony and watched the Italian coastline while I took a nap. This evening we traversed the Straits of Messina. We ate in our favorite dining venue Sabatinis where we could see both the shoreline of Sicily and Italy through windows on opposite sides of the ship. At times it seemed we were close enough to touch the shore!

Tomorrow morning early we will dock in Naples for our tour to Herculaneum and the Amalfi Coast. Each day for the next several we’ll be ashore so posting may be difficult.

October 20 - Sailaway from Venice

The Moses Project - These are a series of huge floodgates being built to protect Venice from the sea. Over the years we have seen the progress being made and it looks like they may soon be completed.
From our vantage point on Deck 12 we towered over everything in Venice as we sailed past.

This morning we awoke to very overcast skies and rain. The wind was blowing above 30 knots which made leaving impossible. The Ruby is a very large ship and the channel out past Piazza San Marco is small so with wind it is difficult. We had friends up to our cabin for sailaway which was scheduled for 1:00 PM. The captain came over the PA system to announce that until the wind dropped below 30 knots we would not be leaving. We didn’t mind since we were having a good time with our friends.


At 3:00 PM we had the obligatory muster drill and as we were making our way back to our cabin, the captain announced that the wind had dropped sufficiently to sail. Shortly thereafter a tug came to manage our stern and we were off. We transited the Giudecca Channel and turned just past San Marco and the Doge’s Palace to head to the Adriatic. This was our 4th sailaway from Venice and I must say it was not as memorable because the views were not as good. But, the company was great and even a small glimpse of Venice is wonderful!

October 19 - Boarding the Ruby Princess

Octopi at the Rialto Market. I don't know why but they always fascinate me!
This is a Traghetto - a gondola-like boat on which you can cross the Grand Canal for a small fee while standing (although there is someone sitting in this photo - probably another crazy tourist!). Anyway, we are of the opinion that if we ever tried this we would probably wind up swimming in the Canal.

After two glorious days today we awoke to cloudy skies and cooler temperatures. Nonetheless we ate breakfast on the terrace and then made our requisite trip to the Rialto Market. It was interesting to see because we were there a little later in the season and the selection of some things (like mushrooms) was not as large. We still love markets and took lots of photos of seafood and other luscious looking things. On our way back to the hotel we made a trek to a post office to buy stamps for our postcards from Venice and the rest of Italy. Sometimes on the ship when you mail a postcard from Naples, it actually gets sent from Lisbon or even Ft. Lauderdale.

Around noon our water taxi arrived to take us to the ship. After saying our farewells to Armando and Bruno after another delightful stay at the Al Ponte Antico, we were on our way to the Ruby Princess. Check-in was quick and easy and before we knew it we were on our way to a light lunch at the buffet.

Our bags came quickly and we spent the afternoon getting unpacked, settled in and meeting friends. We dined with friends from Tidewater and after dinner went to a performance of the Venice Chamber Orchestra. All in all a nice day!

October 18 - Venezia again

This morning we awoke to another beautiful day with clear blue skies. The temperature was a little cool but we ate breakfast on the terrace nonetheless. Matteo made us omelets with eggs from his grandmother’s farm and they were scrumptious.

After breakfast we decided to a little shopping nearby. We found a couple of mementoes from Venice, which shall always remind us of the 2011 adventure. On our way back to the hotel to drop some things off we made a stop at the wine store where we’ve made some good buys in the past. It’s Mille Vini near the Rialto Bridge.

Then we decided to ride over to Murano, the glass-blowing island. We walked to the Fundament Nova on the other (north) side of the island. Along the way we saw a number of shops selling beautiful flowers. Others sold handmade pots and still others were marble carvers. When we boarded the vaporetto for the ride across the laguna our first stop was Cimitero, the cemetery island, and then it clicked why those businesses were along the way to the stop to board the boat that takes you to the cemetery.

Next stop was Murano where we returned to a restaurant we’d had lunch at last time we were there. Once again the food was as good as we remembered it. We also were pleased to note that house wines can be quite wonderful here in the Mediterranean area. As we got up from lunch I heard someone calling my name and saw Laura, one of my fellow cruise critic members whom I’d never met. She and her husband Sylvain were sitting almost behind us. What a pleasure to finally meet someone you’ve been talking to for near 18 months!

We made a stop at the glass factory at which we’d bought something a couple of years ago and then we headed back to the hotel in Venice. Next on our agenda was our obligatory ride on the vaporetto out to Lido and then back the length of the Grand Canal. In the past we’ve had some of our best views doing this. Today was not as good because the boats were so crowded! It was difficult to get near a window. We decided to get off at the Rialto station. Two stops before there Al looked to the front of the cabin and who was sitting there but our friends Bill and Irene who had come in after spending a week in Bologna for the cruise. After hugs all around we agreed we’d see each other tomorrow when we board.

Our evening was spent first on the terrace having drinks with Joe and Mollye and then we proceeded to dinner at another of our favorite restaurants, the Alla Borsa. After some good food and wine (and a little grappa after dinner) and even better conversation with lots of laughter interspersed, we walked back to the hotel for the night.

Tomorrow is the big day many of us have been waiting for since March or April, 2010. Let the cruise begin!