Lanzarote, Canary Islands - 10/31/13

After a nice day at sea we docked in Arrecife, the capital of the island of Lanzarote, the easternmost and fourth largest of the Canary Islands which comprise the Canary Archipelago.  The Canaries are one of Spain’s autonomous communities and are among the farthest regions of the European Union. Lanzarote was probably the first of the island group to be inhabited. While it’s speculated that the Phoenicians came here, the first records came from the Roman, Pliny the Elder. In one of his encyclopedias  he refers to an expedition to “The Fortunate Isles.”  People of a Berber origin settled the island and the some of the names hearken back to those inhabitants. In 1402 the island was conquered by a Norman mercenary Jean de Bethencourt and shortly after the island group came under the control of the King of Castile.

The island is volcanic in origin emerging some 15 million years ago.  It has been geologically active throughout its existence with the greatest number of eruptions occurring in the 1730’s when a period of intense activity occurred for 6 years.  During that time 32 new large volcanoes emerged  and one quarter of the island’s surface was covered in lava.  Today Lanzarote is approximately 800 sq. km with a population of 140,000.

We knew that part of the island would be desert-like, but had no clue what we would see. In fact the island is completely arid. Our guide Cris told us that it rained a little two days ago and that was the first time since January.  The island’s inhabitants have managed to adapt to the desert conditions.  Much of the land is covered by volcanic ash, in some instances to a depth of several meters.  The farmers discovered that the ash is very porous and absorbs the humidity that accumulates overnight from the  ocean.  In the daytime that moisture goes down to the soil below the ash and irrigates what is planted there.  They use the ash as a form of natural irrigation in which they grow grapes, potatoes and other vegetables.

Our first stop of the day was near the entrance of the National Park of  Timanfaya, one of the largest volcanoes.  There I got to take a camel ride on a dromedary.  It was an interesting experience!  I love the faces of the camels.  They plodded along very calmly on a half hour ride.  We formed a train as they were tethered together.  The only real concern I had was that the one in front of me kept pooping and I was hopeful that none of it would land on my feet or me.  It didn’t –whew!

What a pretty girl!

Next we went to the National Park at Timanfaya.  This was the epicenter of the eruptions in 1730 and it looks like a moonscape.  The different kinds of lava flow were apparent;  some flowed quickly and cooled in long and more even structures.  The other more slow-moving flows called aa after a Hawaiian name, formed very rocky, uneven and tangled looking masses of volcanic stone.  After a brief stop at the top of the park, our bus went on a road on which only buses may go through the desolate landscape around a variety of craters.  Along the way we saw some of the lichen which has begun to grow on the lava, lava tubes from which are hanging stalactites called “tears of lava”, and here and there a plant which has somehow managed to latch on to a little soil and grow.  The area reminded us of the Volcano National Park on the Big Island of Hawaii.

Inside Timanfaya volcano

This grill uses volcanic heat solely for cooking.  It's channeled from a few meters below ground.

We made a short stop at the geographical center of the island where we visited a winery and had a taste of the local wine.  It was a dry white wine that wasn’t bad.  We had it later with lunch. After a short visit we were off to a restaurant designed by César Manrique, a world famous artist born and raised on Lanzarote.  Manrique was an abstract artist in love with nature and his island.  The buildings he helped to create all incorporate the volcanic stone and blend in with the contours of their location.  The restaurant had a large water feature made of stone in the lower level where we ate.  Our meal was very good and not really unusual except for a sauce called Mojo which we put on our boiled potatoes.  It was  kind of a purée of peppers, olive oil and garlic and rather tasty.

From the restaurant designed by Manrique we headed to the northernmost tip of the island to another of his creations at a place called Mirador del Rio.  Atop some impressive sea cliffs he built a structure that you really can’t see as you approach from the land because it’s all made of native stone and follows the contours of the heights there.  Inside there is a restaurant and floor to ceiling windows overlooking what is actually a little strait between Lanzarote and the next island, La Graciosa.  There is an open terrace from which we could look down to the shore of our island and across the brilliant blue water  to the other one.  The views were spectacular!

The view from Mirador del Rio

Our final stop of the day was another incredible structure.  As we left the Mirador we passed by a volcano called La Corona.  At some point when it erupted long ago, a lava tube more than 8 km long was formed.  At a point near the ocean, a portion of the lava tube is accessible.  Manrique built in that tube a place called Jameos  del Agua.  We went down a series of lava stone steps to a natural saltwater lake in which are a species of tiny crabs which were trapped when the section of the tube we were in was separated from the part that continues under the ocean.  Because they were initially in the dark, they have evolved and become albino and blind crabs and they are no more than a few centimeters large.  Beyond the natural lake a portion of the original lava roof collapsed and in that area a beautiful pool was built with some palm trees and plants around it.  It is an idyllic place.  Beyond that is a lava auditorium that seats 600 people and has perfect acoustics.  Lanzarote uses the venue for concerts for the population.  It must be incredible to be seated there and listen to an orchestra.

The serene swimming pool in the lava tube at Jameos

A Manrique sculpture serves as the sign for the entrance to Jameos del Aqua

Well, after a full day of exploring the island it was back to our ship.  Overnight we’ll make the short journey to Tenerife, our second port in the Canaries. I'll try posting some photos as I can.