November 17 - Some last thoughts and a recap

First, this was unequivocally our best cruise ever!  Comparing Seabourn to mainstream cruise lines, we have discovered, is like comparing apples to oranges. The level of service, food and attention to detail are different but I think that’s to be expected since there is a price differential.  While I would never say never, I don’t see us  going back to other cruise lines again.  I’m sure I will sail with Katie on our mother-daughter trips on Princess or something else because we have time constraints.

I had minimal expectations about our ports and I was ever so pleasantly surprised.  With no classical Mediterranean or transatlantic ports, I thought there would not be a great deal to see.  Boy, was I mistaken!  The ports were interesting and educational, not in the sense of classical antiquities, but in terms of geology and geography.  We had preconceptions about the Canary Island ports and Cape Verde which turned out to be completely wrong.  We expected lush, tropical places and they were not that.  The road to Marrakech was not at all what we expected and the sights and sounds in Marrakech were incredible.

We began our voyage in Barcelona which has a bad reputation for pickpockets and crime.  We had apprehensions about ending in Rio because of the warnings we received.  We’ve been to Barcelona many times and never had a problem.  As for Rio, we thought the city was beautiful (the parts we saw) and thought it was no more dangerous than any major city.  Granted we didn’t spend a great deal of time there or wander around at night, but I think one always needs to be mindful of the surroundings.  We live in a little city and we had an acquaintance whose pocket was picked in the elevator of our local hospital.  Things happen and you need to be vigilant.

Seabourn offers a superior product.  Their service and ship was incredible.  We liked it enough that we booked another cruise.  If all goes well, next year we’ll cruise from Athens to Mumbai.  I’ll get to see the Taj Mahal!

November 13 - “There is an end to everything,” in this case in Rio

Before telling you about our day in Rio I wanted to add something I forgot to mention day before yesterday. We were sitting on our balcony at sunset  and the sky was very clear with just a few little wisps of clouds.  As the sun went down on the horizon we saw the illusory “green flash!”  For just a split second the sun looked like a bright green sliver and then sunk below the horizon.  Al wasn’t fast enough to catch it, but perhaps we’ll see it again on a future trip.  We’ve seen it once before some years ago.

Anyway, we were up by 6 AM this morning to watch our arrival in Rio.  Captain Larsen had told us it was a very scenic harbor in which to arrive.  Well, it was dawn and from our starboard side we couldn’t see the Copacabana area.  We did get a nice view of an oil platform being constructed.  When it’s finished it will be towed out to its site somewhere off the Brazilian coast.  We also could see the Christ the Redeemer statue at the top of Corcovado.  More about that later.

Oil rig being constructed. It will be towed out later

The white light at the tip of the peak is  Christ the Redeemer lit up

When we were docked, we had an opportunity to watch the baggage being unloaded.  On the big ships we’ve sailed on before, forklifts came to the ship and carried out large container loads of baggage.  On the Quest, a sheet of plywood was placed between the ship and the dock with a net underneath. Quest crew members rolled the luggage one bag at a time across and dock workers moved them into the little terminal.  We watched our bags, which are a distinctive blue, roll across and hoped they didn’t tip over or that the ship didn’t lurch from an unexpected gust of wind.

The luggage crew and their sheet of plywood

After a nice breakfast we collected our carryons and were off at 9 AM.  On the dock waiting to say goodbye and shake hands were the Captain, Cruise Director, Guest Services Manager and other officers.  They greeted everyone by name and wished us safe travels home.  We thought that was a very nice touch 

Our bags were together and our guide Rachel was waiting for us.  When she saw how many bags we had she called and had a driver, Paolo, come with a van instead of a car.  He was there as we exited and we loaded up and were off.  Rachel was fantastic!  We told her we left it to her to arrange our itinerary and she took us first to the cog railway to visit the Christ the Redeemer statue.  Along the way we saw the permanent stands where the Sambadrome is held during Carnival. I’m not sure we’d want to spend the evening there, but the dancing must be incredible.  When we arrived at the station, we were able to buy our tickets and board within five minutes.  I had read about long lines but we were lucky.

The  Christ the Redeemer statue is one of the 7 modern wonders of the world.  The statue of Christ with outstretched arms is 98 feet tall not including the 26 foot tall pedestal. It is at the top of the 2300 foot tall Corcovado Mountain  and in the middle of a national forest.  The steep ride up goes through lush forests with lots of jackfruit trees and a tree with silvery white leaves which the Brazilians call “It’s not worth anything" trees.  Rachel told us that wasn’t really true though, because the leaves attract lots of insects keeping them away from other vegetation around.  The view from the top was amazing!  Apparently the day before we arrived  Rio had a record hot day but overnight a front had passed through with heavy rain. It cleared the air and got rid of the heat.  We had a 360° view of Rio in lovely cool temperatures.  On one side we could see Sugarloaf.  On another we could see the natural lagoon and hippodrome and beyond them Ipanema Beach.

The Christ the Redeemer Statue

The Lagoon and Ipanema area from Corcovado

Sugarloaf is the distinctive promontory on the left

After having a nice look around, watching a monkey play in a tree near the railway stop and visiting the little chapel at the summit, we headed down.  Next we drove down to the lagoon area where we could see a massive floating Christmas tree being built.  Each year it is built, moved to the middle of the lagoon, and illuminated with 3 million lights.  Rachel said the official lighting ceremony will occur this coming weekend.

Our next stop was the H. Stern headquarters which I wanted to see.  There’s a self-guided tour which passed by craftsmen sorting precious stones, polishing, designing  pieces and doing all the other things that go into creating fine jewelry.  When you exit the tour you must pass through the showrooms.  Smart move on H. Stern’s part, because we succumbed to temptation.  I have a nice memento of Rio and our cruise.

From H. Stern Paolo, an excellent driver by the way, took us to the end of Ipanema Beach near the Sheraton Hotel where there is a wonderful viewpoint.  I asked Rachel about the song “The Girl from Ipanema” and she told us that later we would see the bar where the creators of the song, Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes,   were inspired by a  beautiful 17-year-old girl who used to walk by since she lived nearby. Frank Sinatra heard the Brazilian song and called the two men at the bar where they spent much time.  He was evidently instrumental in having the song popularized in the rest of the world.

That's Ipanema Beach in the background

After seeing Ipanema it was time for lunch.  We asked Rachel to recommend a place that was not totally touristy. She suggested a place near Copacabana Beach called Marius after the owner. It was a brilliant choice.  Aside from one table when we first entered everyone was Brazilian, many of them family groups having lunch.  The place is named for the owner who wandered around and reminded me of an aging hippy.  It’s not a traditional Brazilian steakhouse (churascarria).  They do serve grilled meats and seafood in addition to a buffet, but the place is a feast for the visual senses.  Literally every square inch  is covered with things hanging or affixed to the walls.  Above our heads at the table the 3 of us occupied were snowshoes, boxing gloves, wooden plane propellers, etc, etc.  There were a couple of very large bells (think church bells!!) near the front door and every once in a while (for no apparent reason that we could ascertain) someone would walk over and strike the bell.  The first time it was a little bit of a shock. Even the bathrooms, which were upstairs, were full of stuff.   The floors were pea gravel and the sinks were full of stones.  We started with oysters on the half shell from the buffet and giant prawns and then moved on to empanadas (I’m not sure they call them that in Brazil) and grilled meats.  The waiter would come with a small cutting board and give us slices of different types of beef, pork and lamb.  The maitre d’ took a liking to us and they cooked some Kobe beef and brought it to us.  It was wonderful!   Before we left he came over with two large  chunks of quartzite and presented them to me.  I didn’t see anyone else getting some rocks when they left but I took them and tucked them into a carryon later.

The ceiling above our table at Marius

A wall in the restaurant - we've never seen such an eclectic bunch of stuff

We had to stop back at H. Stern to pick up our purchase so there was no time to stand in line for the cable car up Sugarloaf.  I guess that gives us an excuse to go back to Rio.  On our way back to the store we drove along Copacabana Beach.  It’s much wider than Ipanema and it was interesting to see that various groups have staked out their sections of the beach. The various areas have flags flying representing the groups   Rachel told us that while the beach is crowded at Carnival season, it is most crowded on New Year’s Eve.  On that night 3 million people gather on the beaches!  It’s tradition to wear white that night and to toss flowers into the ocean.  We couldn’t imagine that many people there.

It was getting  close to rush hour so we decided to head to the airport.  Rio  has traffic problems like most metropolitan areas.  They are trying to improve roads and complete a metro system in anticipation of hosting the World Cup of soccer and the Olympics in the next few years.  At the moment Rachel said the efforts are making the traffic worse not better.

Downtown Rio was quite lovely with lots of trees and parks.  The ride to the airport took us past a different side of Rio.  Along the way we passed big industrial areas and could see many favelas which are low-income neighborhoods.  Rachel told us the government is working hard to clean these areas up.  Only recently have the police started patrolling them again. For a long time they were controlled by gangs of various types.  I think they still have a long way to go.

Rachel dropped us at the airport and since we had a while before the check in would begin, she arranged for the porter who took our luggage to park us at some seats and come back to take us and our vast amount of luggage to the counter to check-in.  Watching people in the airport in Rio was just as interesting as in Dulles or any other airport.  We were entertained watching the  clothing and demeanor.  We flew Delta and check-in was fine.  Security is where we hit a snag. There were many security people and not one had anything but a scowl on the face. We had our 3 walking sticks, two taped together.  A very stern man told us something very gruffly in Portuguese.  When we looked at him in confusion he told us that the walking sticks were not permitted.  We’ve never had a problem with walking sticks before and we told him that.  Then he said we could have one.  We said we each needed one.  While the security people were dealing with other people, Al told me to move along and take 2 of the sticks while we had the chance and not argue with them. I was prepared for a debate, but he was right. The upshot was we had to leave the  new Besalu stick behind. At  passport control  the young woman there looked angry  too.  It was unexpected because to that point every Brazilian we’d met was friendly and engaging.  Between now and 2016 the Brazilians need to do some training of their officials on people skills  if they want folks coming to the Olympics to have a positive memory of their trip.

We spent a couple of hours in the only airline lounge open; it serves almost every foreign airline as the others are being remodeled.  It was packed but better than wandering around the gate areas or sitting near the gates.  Our plane was full but the seats were nice lie flat ones and we actually got a little nap on the way to Atlanta.  After a couple of hours layover we were on our way  back to Virginia.  It felt good to be back home.  Al went to pick up Emma and I went to get something for our dinner.  It was cold here at home which was a shock after the weather on the cruise.

Once we've had a chance to unpack and get settled in I'll write about our final impressions.  It was a wonderful trip!  

November 12 - Last Sea Day

We lost an hour last night so time to get up came too early.  We had some  pretty stiff breezes today but as we were running with the seas there was little motion at all.  I had wondered before we boarded how a ship of this size would handle in a transatlantic crossing.  Granted we’ve had no rough weather but it has been absolutely great.

After breakfast we checked e-mails and updated the blog.  Then it was time for the final round of trivia.  We had little chance of winning outright so our only hope was to gamble enough points on the final question and win that way.  We gambled and we lost!  Oh well, we didn’t need a Seabourn teddy bear anyway.

Lunch today was fun.  It was another Seabourn tradition, the Galley Market Lunch.  The main dining room was set up with tables at one end with cold salads and meats.  In the middle were tables with wonderful desserts (more about that later).  For everything else you had to go into the galley and make a circuit through.  As we entered there was a stewardess giving shots of vodka or aquavit.  We each had one and did it bottoms up.  There were stations set up on the route through the galley.  First up was the fondue station.  I had some; Al didn’t but it was good.  Next up was the seafood bar with crab legs and claws, nice size shrimp, mussels and sushi.  I took some of that and decided to come back for another look after enjoying my crab and mussels.

Further along were roast suckling pig, beef loin, a variety of gratins (both vegetable and seafood), stroganoff, fish & chips, wursts and sauerkraut and more that I can’t remember. We sat with most of our trivia team and had a lovely time.  The sommelier was Philip who took care of our first party in our cabin.  As for desserts, it’s unfortunate that there were so many to choose from all at once.  I found a wonderful Limoncello cake.  Al had a lemon meringue thing and some of our tablemates tried the Baked Alaska.  Everything tasted wonderful!

After lunch it was time to do one of the things that I dislike most – pack!  I must say, we clearly didn’t buy enough stuff along the way because I have plenty of room in the suitcases.  The only large thing we bought is being shipped home.  We do have an extra walking stick to add to Al’s collection.  Since we came with two (which we did use) and they won’t fit in a suitcase we’re going to duct tape two together.  Duct tape is an essential travel accessory in my opinion.

After packing we went out on deck and played a couple of Scrabble games.  Once again we split them so we’re tied again.  Maybe we’ll break the tie in the airport lounge tomorrow.

The wind has moderated a little and we’ve seen a number of birds.  On the port side (we’re on starboard) there are evidently a number of oil platforms.  We saw a couple while we had lunch.  Anyway, a few minutes ago a helicopter passed over and we think it must be related to a platform.

Al forgot to bring his camera to the dining room for the lunch.  No photos. So sorry.

This evening we met our British and Australian friends for drinks and dinner again.  We ate outside and it was quite nice.  The heavens were cooperating with a light show in the distance.  Lots of lightning is around.  The captain told us they are calling for rain in Rio tomorrow. I hope not because we’re planning on being up to see us sail in.  I’ve heard it’s spectacular.  We have a private car, driver and guide arranged through Seabourn for the day. They will take us wherever we like and then drop us at the airport at the end of the afternoon.  I’m hoping we’ll see something of Rio (H. Stern is on my list) but I confess I have little apprehension.  We have received several warning sheets about Rio and crime while on the ship.  Obviously since we are homeward bound we have most of our valuables with us not in our packed luggage.  I hope we’ll be okay.  Well, dinner is over, the bags have been set out and it’s time to say nighty-nite.  

November 11 – Veterans’ (Remembrance) Day at sea

Today is our next to the last day on board.  Once again we have blue skies and it’s pretty hot and humid.  Today is Veterans’ Day. To the British on the ship it’s called Remembrance Day.  I can’t remember if I mentioned earlier on that the British are the majority on the Quest.  Anyway, there was a very nice service in the Grand Salon with some prayers and a couple of hymns, including Amazing Grace which always makes me cry.  At precisely 11 AM the ship’s horn sounded to begin a minute of silence.  The whole thing was very nicely done.

At 11:15 we had to meet in Club 5, the Trivia venue, to prepare for our Fancy Dress (meaning costumes) session of Trivia.  As our team name this round is “The Eggheads” we wore sheets and chef’s hats with Eggheads written on them.  We were each a different kind of egg.  We didn’t win the costume competition which didn’t surprise me.  Some of the teams had really elaborate get-ups. We played a short round of trivia afterwards and we’ll get our scores tomorrow.  (No pictures at the moment.  The ones we took are so dreadful I can't bring myself to post them.  perhaps one of our teammates will send me a better one.)

We decided that this afternoon we wouldn’t do anything planned at all.  We spent a little time catching up on e-mails and the blog.  We sat on the balcony for awhile and we played a couple of games of Scrabble.  I think we’re about even at this point.

Tonight was a formal night and we got all dressed up again.  I’m getting pretty good at tying Al’s bowtie!  We met our friends up in the Observation Bar and after a drink or two decided to go down to dinner.  The senior member of the group, a long time Seabourn cruiser who knows every officer on the ship, had the head bar steward call down to the dining room to ask about a table for six.  A few moments later the Maitre d’ called back to say there was a long wait because everyone seemed to come at the same time and wanted larger tables.  So we changed plans and went to the Colonnade and ate outside.  It was a lovely night with nearly a half moon, lots of stars and just a faint breeze so it wasn’t too hot.  It was our first time eating there at night and it was very nice.  There were lots of LED candles on the table and you are served from an a la carte menu, not a buffet.  Another couple we’ve become friends with were already there so we eight dined together.  After a nice meal, good wine and good conversation we did something we rarely do.  We went to the show.  Tonight there was a British comedian who was quite funny.  We enjoyed it and then decided to turn in.  We lose an hour of sleep tonight.

November 10 - Maceio, Brazil

This morning we arrived in Maceio, Brazil.  It’s only a little south of Recife but quite different.  Maceio is primarily a beach town.  We didn’t plan a tour but instead opted to take the shuttle bus into town.   As we waited for a bus in the little cruise terminal there were a group of students dancing and welcoming us.  We had a few minutes to wait so I went and asked if I might join them.  They taught me some very rudimentary steps.  I’m clearly not ready for Dancing with the Stars but it was fun to spend a few minutes with them.

Not ready for primetime but I had fun while waiting

We were dropped off at a large shopping center full of stores selling handcrafts, t-shirts, shoes, lace items etc.  It was across the street from the gorgeous beach which was packed because it was Sunday.  I couldn’t resist so I took off my sandals to walk in the sand down to the water.  Wow, was the sand ever hot!  I didn’t linger on it for very long and raced down to where the waves were breaking to cool my feet off.  The water was surprisingly cool given the heat and intensity of the sun here just a little south of the Equator.

The very busy beach

Looking down the beach

After racing back to the street and putting my shoes back on, we went back into the market, bought a few t-shirts and then took the bus back to the ship.  I think for beach lovers Maceio might be a great place to come.  As we drove back to the port we could see that the avenue was lined with some nice looking hotels and lots of restaurants and cafes.  Walking back to the ship we saw this warning sign painted on a building across from the ship.  Our guide yesterday had told us there were problems with insects.  The same must be true here in Maceio.

We think this means beware of mosquitos

Our ship sailed at 2 PM.  We had two tugs with lines on us.  We don’t think we really needed them, but it probably was a way for the Brazilians to get more money. Right after we sailed away we had another of Seabourn’s signature events, Caviar in the pool.  We were having people over shortly after so we stayed out of the water.  People were bobbing about in the pool and being served champagne and caviar.  I would love to know how much champagne is being consumed on this voyage.  I can’t remember any time of day when I haven’t seen people with a glass out and about.

At 3:30 we had 26 of our new friends up to our cabin for wine and champagne.  I had asked for some chips and peanuts and a little caviar as well.  As with the last party we had, Seabourn brought way more than I requested.  We had hot and cold canapés and a cheese tray.  I guess they want to make sure we’re never hungry and they are being very successful.

In the evening we met some of our friends, the Reillys and the Campbells, in the Observation Bar.  After drinks we went and had another nice meal in the dining room.  We stopped into the show for a few minutes but then decided to turn in.  Tomorrow is a sea day with the fancy dress competition at Trivia. 

November 9 - Recife and Olinda

This morning we were awakened at 6:30 AM by what sounded like a parade.  We went out on the balcony to see we were nearly docked in Recife and there was a small but enthusiastic band playing as three dancers performed.  The dancers were incredibly energetic; they danced for a good 30 minutes and after just a 5 minute break they started up again.

Welcoming dancers on the dock

Recife is the 5^th largest metropolitan area in Brazil with more than 3.7 million inhabitants.  It’s the capital of the northern state of Pernambuco. It’s located where two rivers flow into the Atlantic Ocean.  The name is a reference to the coral reefs which lie just offshore.  The city is built on a number of islands and with over 50 bridges in the city center people refer to it as the Brazilian Venice.  Recife was one of the first cities in Brazil to be settled by the Portuguese in 1537.  Land grants were given to noblemen who sought to make a fortune planting sugar cane.  Many of the settlements failed but Recife didn’t.  The Portuguese found the natives to be uncooperative (why would they be when they were being basically enslaved?) about working on the plantations so slaves from Africa were imported.  Today the economy in this part of Brazil is still primarily agricultural as opposed to industrial like the southern part of the country.

We took a tour that drove us first to the premier beach in Recife.  It is a gorgeous beach protected by a coral reef.  Along the shoreline there is a really eclectic mixture of buildings and neighborhoods.  There are beautiful high-rise apartment buildings. Just back from them are some  really awful looking favelas, or slums.  Our guide Gina told us that the government is trying to clean up the favelas and build new housing for the lower classes.  She told us that what we were seeing was greatly improved over just a few years ago.

Modern Recife along the beach

Next we drove to the town of Olinda, a UNESCO world heritage site.  Olinda is the best preserved colonial city in northern Brazil.  It was built on seven hills just like Lisbon.  The founder decided to build there in 1535 to afford some protection from attacking pirates, corsairs or marauding fleets from other countries.  During a period of Portuguese weakness in the first part of the 17^th century, Olinda was occupied by the Dutch. After Portugal regained its power in the second half of the century, the colony returned to Portuguese control. 

The town has undergone some fires, but restorations have been done to many buildings and the area is full of cobblestone streets lined with  colonial style buildings with lots of wrought iron balconies, brightly colored paint jobs and intricate tile work.  We visited a monastery, another church and a convent dedicated to Saint Anne.  The views from each of those places was breathtaking.  Since Olinda is perched on hills , from the terraces of the churches we could see the beautiful beach of Recife in the distance and the marvelous colors of the ocean.  It’s springtime here and there were lots of things blooming.  I have to say too that since we’re very close to the Equator, it is also incredibly hot and humid!  I suppose you get used to it, but I was drained when we got back to the ship. The humidity also causes a lot of mildew. Many of the buildings, even new ones are stained with it.

Monastery of Sao Bento

Us on the balcony of one of the churches 

Some of the colorful colonial buildings. You can see streaks of mildew down the sides of a few.

A baobob tree estimated to be more than 250 years old in one of the main squares

Our final stop of the day was the old prison in Recife.  It has been turned into a cultural center for handcrafts of local products.  Each of the former cells now holds a little shop selling various things made around here.

We were back to the ship in time for lunch.  This afternoon we just lazed around until 4:30.  At that time the ship had arranged for a local group of dancers to come aboard and perform around the pool.  We weren’t going to go at first, but I’m very glad we did.  They were absolutely fantastic!  The musicians were a father (80 years old) and his two sons.  The troupe of dancers were ten young people who were some of the most athletic and flexible men and women I’ve ever seen.  While I haven’t been to Carnivale, the costumes reminded me of ones I’ve seen in photos.  They performed for more than an hour and even got a few of our shipmates involved.  It was good fun.

The local dance troupe.  They were great!

Some of our new found friends dancing with the troupe.  The lady in the white shirt is our lovely teammate Anne.

We were due to sail from Recife around 5:30, but the show lasted longer than expected. From our balcony we watched them disembark.  We thought we’d pull up the gangway then and we’d be off.  Instead the Captain made an announcement that “our papers were not in order” and we’d be delayed.  Funny, our papers were in order to arrive.  Anyway, after half an hour or so there was a flurry of activity at the gangway and two young women came off with their luggage.  Several staff members in uniform came off as well.  There were hugs and kisses.  After they departed, about 15 Brazilians got off, some carrying shopping bags.  Then finally, the gangway was lifted and the ship left.  We heard later that two South African female crew members had something not in order with their documents, so they had to leave the ship.  They will fly to Miami and then to Montevideo to reboard there.  The Brazilians apparently have rules different from everybody else.

After dinner we went to one of Seabourn’s signature events, Rock the Boat.  They have the band and singers at the main pool and have a dance party.  It was  absolutely so much fun!  We don’t dance much (Al less than me), but we danced most of the time.  We got up and rocked to everything from Elvis and the Rolling Stones to Lady Gaga.  We were part of a Conga Line and ended the dancing with “We are family.”  We loved it and wished they had done this on an earlier sea day.  People seemed to lighten up a lot and have a really good time.

Well, then it was time to go to bed and rest up for tomorrow.  This cruising is really hard work!

November 8 – The Friday Ladies’ Lunch Bunch

Our last crossing day before we reach Brazil dawned just like the previous ones.  After breakfast Al checked his e-mails and I worked on the blog.  Then it was Trivia time.  We’re doing very badly this time.  Oh, well!  That’s the way it goes.

After trivia I was invited to a Ladies’ Lunch by two of my teammates.  It’s a tradition they have for Fridays at sea.  We had three other British ladies join us in the dining room while the men went up to the Colonnade.  It was a nice time.  We did a lot of gossiping and had a lot of wine.  After lunch we went up to the main pool where the guys had adjourned and seemed to be having a good time so we ladies left them alone and went to the bar for a nice frosty boat drink.

There were a lot of birds flying around.  Someone said they were albatrosses.  Someone else thought they were frigate birds.  We’ve been sailing through large schools of flying fish and we’ve seen sea birds fly along the surface and just scoop them up as the fish skim along.

Two of the birds soaring over the ship

The shipbuilding competition was next up.  There were only a few entries but they all sailed across the pool.  The winner was built by the Australian who helped us figure out how to use our binoculars to view the eclipse.  After the competition we talked with him for awhile.  We’re having a sailaway party tomorrow and we’ve invited him and his wife to come.

After cleaning up we went and met our friends in the Observation Bar.  When it was dinner time we all adjourned to the main dining room where we had another nice dinner.  Our tablemates have cruised on Seabourn many times so all the staff know them.  They took extra special care of us.  That is something I must say about this ship and crew, though.  They are simply wonderful about knowing your name and are universally cheerful and eager to accommodate your wishes.

Well, we didn’t accomplish anything significant but the day seemed busy.  Tomorrow we’ll make our first stop in Recife, Brazil.

November 7 – Crossing the Equator (We’re Shellbacks now!) and Al’s birthday

Today was another sea day.  I haven’t figured out why they are so busy, but they are.  After breakfast Al checked his e-mails and I updated the blog.  Then it was time for trivia.  We can’t use the excuse any longer that we’re  trying to lull the opposition.  Today we were bad!  They’ve added a new twist to the competition and on the last day teams are encouraged to come in “fancy dress” which for us Americans means costumes.  Our Australian members have come up with something. We’ll see how this all works out.

Mid-afternoon King Neptune and his court arrived onboard and it was time to initiate those who had never crossed the Equator on the sea (Pollywogs).  It doesn’t count if you’ve flown across it or even gone via land.  I think most of the passengers and many of the crew gathered around the main pool to watch the fun as several crew members who were Pollywogs were initiated into the Shellback society.  Thankfully we were spared from the ritual but it was lots of fun to see.  Each one was brought before Neptune and was sentenced to either the barber or the butcher for punishment for crossing the line.  At each station the Pollywog was thoroughly doused in some bilious looking compounds and then had to kiss an enormous fish.  After that they were tossed in the pool.  The last crew member to be taken was our cruise director Handré.  Everything that was left was smeared on him and a pie was rubbed in his face.  As he was being tossed in the pool he grabbed hold of our Captain and he went in too.  They were all great sports!

King Neptune and his lovely bride

King Neptune's Court

A hapless Pollywog being given a hair wash by the barbers

Yech! Kissing the fish

Our cruise director Handré being worked on by the Butcher, the Barber, the Captain et al

Us with His Majesty King Neptune

Late this afternoon we had a party in our suite for our teammates.  I had asked for a few hors d’oeuvres and some wine.  I was stunned with what came.  We had hot and cold canapés, wine, champagne and mixed drinks and a bartender to take care of it all.  We gathered around and had a toast to the team.  Then as we actually crossed the line and the ship’s horn sounded we toasted the Equator.  Finally we toasted Al because it was his birthday.  We had a lovely evening before going off to dinner.  When we came back to our cabin everything had magically disappeared.  It was a wonderful day and we get an extra hour of sleep which will be very nice.

These were just the cold hors d'oeuvres. They brought the hot ones when the guests arrived.

November 6 - Around the Seabourn Quest

It’s another day at sea with sunny skies and calm seas. The internet is finally working again so I caught up on e-mails and the blog.  Then I decided to do a walkabout and take some ship photos.  While she is not very big, the ship is quite lovely.

Up on Deck 10 forward is the Observation Bar which has a marvelous view of the ocean.  In the evening there’s a little buffet with various hors d’oeuvres and a pianist playing nice music.  One deck up is a sun deck with views of the bow of the ship.  I tried taking photos but my camera fogged up. It’s more than a little humid here!

The Observation Bar - a great place for evening cocktails

On Deck 9 aft is the Retreat.  It’s  sort of a Sanctuary and Thermal Suite combined.  Inside there is an area with a Kniep Pool in the center.  One side of the pool is warm water and the other cold.  It’s not for swimming just putting one’s feet in.  Around it are heated recliners.  Outside on the stern deck are recliners with comfy cushions.

The Retreat and it's little pool

More of the Retreat

Deck 8 is home to the Colonnade, the casual dining venue with tables both inside and out and the Pool Grill as well as the main pool.  There are many recliners around in both sun and shade.  Also on 8 is Restaurant 2, the alternative dining place which serves a tasting menu.  It’s the only place you need to make a reservation (no upcharge).  We ate there a few nights ago and it was excellent with some very creative and interesting combinations.

The Colonnade - Buffet for breakfast and lunch but with made to order things; table service at night

More Colonnade

Restaurant 2

On Deck 7, our home, is Seabourn Square which is kind of the central place on the ship.  Here are the guest services people, destination service (shore excursions), and future cruise person.  They all sit at little desks and you sit with them while they take care of whatever your need is.  Shipboard accounts are available on the interactive TV in the suites. Around the area where the staff is located are couches and tables and computer terminals for those who didn’t bring their own.  There are newspapers available.  There’s also a coffee bar which operates all day and evening where you can get whatever kind of coffee concoction or tea you like.  There are also drinks available, as well as sandwiches, pastries, cookies and ice cream.  It’s a little like an International Café except there is no charge for anything you order. We decided to invite our team for drinks and hors d’oeuvres tomorrow evening.  The Bar Manager met me in the Square to go over what we would like to have.  Tomorrow evening he’ll send a bar steward and stewardess to set up and serve in our cabin. 

Seabourn Square

Coffee Bar at the Square

On Deck 6 is the Grand Salon where lectures and shows are held.  There was a lecture going on when I went there so no photos of that. Deck 5 is the location of Club 5 aft.  That’s where we play Trivia and in the evening there is music and dancing.  Next to it is the little casino. Aft is another nice pool area with recliners and tables.

Club 5 - also known as Trivia Central!

Finally on Deck 4 is the main Dining Room.  It is very nicely decorated and can actually hold all the passengers at one time if they all decide to dine there at the same time.  We have eaten there all nights but one and have enjoyed both the service and the food.

Main Dining Room

So enough about the ship.  At noon we had the first round of the new Trivia game.  We’re 20 points back from the leader.  We told the others we’re lulling them into a false sense of security.  In the afternoon we started running into rain squalls. Seas were still pretty calm though.  At 5:30 we met the other Virginians on board at the Observation Bar for drinks.  We had a nice chat.  Then we joined some of our teammates at another table.  One couple is from Australia and the other from Scotland but transplanted to Marbella in Spain.  We eventually all went down to dinner in the dining room and we were the last to leave the place; we were having such a good time!  We headed off to bed then.  Our friends who are senior to us went off to the club for more partying.  We can’t keep up with them.