August 27 - Saint- Pierre and Miquelon

We tendered ashore today to Saint-Pierre which is an Overseas Territory of France. The history of these islands is confusing to say the least.  For nearly three hundred years ownership went back and forth between the British and the French.  When the British would take over they would destroy the French settlement and deport the inhabitants back to France and vice versa.  The fate of the islands would be decided at the conclusion of wars and the signing of treaties.  So at the end of the Wars of the Spanish Succession , the Seven Years’ War, our Revolutionary War and the French Revolutionary Wars (including the Napoleonic era) ownership went back and forth. Strangely enough in the early 20th century the islanders considered joining the US but that idea fizzled and the place stayed French.  I am amazed that they changed hands so often because from what I heard on my tour and saw while there, the islands don’t appear to have any outstanding natural resources.  Possessing those seems to usually be the motivating factor for occupying territory.

The islands have a little over 4000 inhabitants and the primary sources of employment are the fishing industry and government work.  They do have one big claim to fame – during our prohibition back beginning in 1920, these islands became a primary source and route for smuggling liquor into the US.  Supposedly somewhere around 2 million gallons of booze passed through here.  We passed a little old hotel which was reportedly visited by Al Capone who was said to have left a hat there. He had come to inspect his interests here.

The local liquor store

I took a “scenic drive” tour of the island of Saint-Pierre.  Our guide was an enthusiastic young woman from Newfoundland (which is only a few miles away).  When asked why she was living in Saint-Pierre she told us that she’d fallen in love with a guy she met in France and when he told her he lived in Saint-Pierre she decided to follow him here.  I can only say it must be true love, because there’s not a whole lot else to recommend this place.  The drive would probably have been very nice had it been a sunny day, but it was one of those misty, moisty days as Winnie the Pooh would have said.  We stopped at a couple of scenic overlooks and we couldn’t see much but fog.  Many houses along the way were brightly colored, and based on what she told us, very expensive (we’re talking in the range of €350,000 (that’s roughly $410,000) for a very modest looking home.  A plot of land with nothing on it could cost between €120,000 and €150,000.

I think it would be beautiful without fog and mist.

Colorful but not worth €350,000 IMHO

Along the beach near the tender dock there was a line of brightly colored fishing huts in front of which were boats lined up on  sort of slides so they can be easily launched into the water. 

The longest road is about 6 kilometers long and there are 3 roundabouts.  I think we drove on all of them.  We passed the airport which does have one flight per week coming from Paris.  The runway isn’t very long, so they limit the number of passengers on the Airbus that flies in to just 100 so it can manage the runway.  On our way back to the tender dock we passed a square where they were doing some folk dancing, but by the time we got off the bus that was done.  I’m stealing a  photo of them that another of my fellow passengers was able to get.

I neglected to mention that the settlers on the island came principally from Breton, Normandy and Basque country.

This was one of those places that I’ve been to that make  me wonder why it was placed on the itinerary, but I suppose there are operational reasons and I think it’s nice to help the economy of the little islands like Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.  The people were extremely friendly and gracious, so kudos to them.

In the afternoon I played Name That Tune and we didn’t win.  Unlike the last time I barely knew any of the songs, but it was fun nonetheless.  I had dinner at a hosted table with a charming female officer from Argentina.  After dinner there was a show with a group called “Soul Wave.”  Despite the fact that they played a lot of music from my era, there was something off.  I’m not exactly sure what it was but they just didn’t click with me. As usual I went down to the Club and listened to the wonderful Trio and Band.  I wish they were on every cruise I sail on because they are great musicians and really nice people.  We get an extra hour of sleep tonight so I have an excuse for staying up very late.  

Two sea days coming up!  Those are my favorites.  Au revoir for now.