April 13 - Jeju Island and the Spirited Garden

Our next port of call was Jeju Island, the largest island of the Republic of Korea which lies about 50 miles off the coast. Jeju was formed by the eruption of an underwater volcano about 2 million years ago and the island is the location of many dormant volcanos. The terrain is composed mainly of basalt and lava and is not conducive to a lot of farming.  Apparently the most successful crops grown here are barley, which locals eat more of than rice because it’s less expensive, and a type of tangerine.  

I booked a half day tour to a green tea plantation and to a place called the Spirited Garden.  At the tea plantation we were able to taste a sample of the tea- it was good- and walk through the fields.  There were a couple of signs that said beware of snakes so I didn’t venture very far into a row of tea plants.  I was thinking about it and in the Azores, which are also volcanic and geologically active, there is Europe’s only tea plantation.  I wonder if volcanic soil makes for a good tea growing  medium.

A view of tea fields from the tearoom observatory

Fields and fields of tea

Our next stop was the Spirited Garden and I have to say it was one of the most beautiful, serene places I’ve ever been.  Covering nearly ten acres this garden is the largest dedicated bonsai garden in the world.  A farmer from Seoul began creating it in 1964 and it opened in 1968. The place creates a perfect harmony between the more than 400 planted bonsai trees, sculptures made of volcanic stone, artificial waterfalls made of the same stone meeting pools filled with huge carp, stone bridges and walls and towers.  It was a beautiful, sunny day with a nice breeze blowing and I had a feeling of absolute peace and serenity walking through the garden.  We had a special treat along the way.  The creator, Mr. Bum-young Sung was there sitting on a bench.  In the little gift shop there were copies of the book “The Spirited Garden” written by him so I bought one, had him autograph it, and had my photo taken with him.  I don’t want to sound corny, but when I was with this man, who is in his late 80’s, I had a sense of total serenity and joy in being alive.  I could have stayed in the garden for the whole day.

I know I'm putting too many photos from here, but it was so beautiful it's hard to choose.

Mr. Sung and me

Around the garden there were some boards with quotes from Mr. Sung  I thought this one was particularly profound.

Unfortunately we had to leave after 90 minutes and return to our home away from home. If anyone who reads this ever goes to Jeju, I highly recommend visiting this lovely place.  We sailed around 6 PM and there was a sailaway party on deck.  It was an ABBA party and I just couldn’t go to it because that was Helga’s favorite and I would have been too sad not seeing her front and center dancing.  Maybe some time in the future, but not today.