October 12 - Gibraltar

Today we’re docked at Gibraltar, the Rock. It’s an interesting place with lots of history.  In one of the caves, Gorham’s Cave, evidence of Neanderthal inhabitants has been found dating as far back as 24,000 BC.  That makes Gibraltar one of the last bastions of Neanderthal man, actually the skull found was of a woman so we should say Neanderthal woman.  The first recorded inhabitants were Phoenicians (those Phoenicians were everywhere) around 1000 BC.  In ancient times this place was known as one of  the Pillars of Hercules. Visible across the strait are the mountains of North Africa.

The name Gibraltar has an interesting origin.  The first Moorish leader who came here when the Moors invaded the Iberian Peninsula was named Tarik.  The rock and land around it were named Jabal Tarik.  In Arabic that means “mount of Tarik” and over the centuries it evolved to Gibraltar.

During WWII the civilian population of the Rock was evacuated to London, Madeira, North Africa and even Jamaica.  Gibraltar played an important role in that war. Franco, the Spanish dictator, wouldn’t allow German forces to assault the place from Spanish soil.  The British and their allies used Gibraltar to help resupply the island of Malta  which lies off the boot of Italy and was under siege and crippling air attacks for several years.

Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory.  It was ceded in perpetuity to Britain by the Spanish in the Treaty of Utrecht a little over 300 years ago.  This has been a thorn in the side of Spain ever since.  In the late 1960’s the Spanish closed the border and completely cut off communications  for a number of years.  It was partially reopened in 1982 and fully reopened in 1985 just before Spain joined the European Community.  Because of the closure, Gibraltarians decided that they wouldn’t ever have to be reliant on Spain for things like electricity or water.  They first built a diesel power plant and just recently completed a natural gas plant.  They also supply all their water needs through a desalinization plant.

It’s interesting that the Spaniards living in the area adjacent to Gibraltar don’t want the Rock to be annexed by Spain.  In its present state Gibraltar provides lots of employment for local Spanish, about 10,000 jobs in fact.  The population of Gibraltar is about 34,000.

I’ve been here many times so I didn’t take a tour.  I took a shuttle taxi into the main square, Casement Square.  There were a lot of people walking around; the Mein Schiffe is here again today and it’s a big ship and maybe they were from there.  The main street reminds me of a street in St. Thomas or St. Maarten.  There are plenty of jewelry, cigar, leather and liquor stores.  Gibraltar has some kind of duty-free status so supposedly there are “bargains” to be found. I walked up to the end of the main shopping district and then headed back to Casement Square.  The little alleys running perpendicular to the street had very grand and quirky names like Parliament Lane, Barrister’s Row and Bedlam Lane.

This guy passed me with his pack and shoes hanging and a couple of walking poles.  I figure he must be trekking across Europe or the world.  Oh, to be young!  (truthfully I don't think I could ever have been a back-packer; I like creature comforts too much.)

Don't these scenes look like something from a Caribbean island?

I considered having lunch at Roy’s Fish and Chips, a place where I’ve eaten before with both Al and my daughter, but it was too early and I’m getting “fooded” up.  Instead I found a shuttle and came back.  It was actually very muggy in the narrow streets and back here on the ship out on deck we have a nice breeze blowing.

Well, now you know all about my actually pretty boring day here, but you’ve also read a little history too. We have a day at sea tomorrow and then our last port on Friday, Palma de Mallorca.  These days have flown by!