It’s Wednesday and we’re docked at Bodrum, Mugla province, Turkey. We’re in the southwestern part of Turkey. The ancient Greeks settled this area and the city was called Halicarnassus. In the 4th century BC the Persians became the rulers of the area under the kings of Caria who were subjects of Persia. One of the kings was King Mausolos. Upon his death in 353 BC his wife, who was also his sister, commissioned a huge tomb. That massive tomb was the origin of the word mausoleum and the structure was one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. After a series of earthquakes all that remained of the structure were some of the foundation stones and a few sculptures. Alexander the Great took the city in 334 BC. In subsequent centuries it belonged to the Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans. For a brief period in the early 15th century, the Knights Hospitaller, Crusader knights, occupied the city and built the castle that dominates the shoreline. They used many of the stones from the mausoleum. One hundred years later Suleiman the Magnificent defeated the Knights at their stronghold on the island of Rhodes so they relocated first to Sicily and then eventually Malta.
When I went ashore, Zeynep was waiting for me. We talked about what our plan would be for the day and agreed we would not go into the castle. Frankly, my feet and knees needed a little break. Instead we headed to a hill overlooking the bay and with a view of the castle. On the way we stopped at an ancient Greek amphitheater. The seating is still intact and in fact concerts are held there in the summer. The acoustics are such that no sound system is needed.
Also on the hill with the view were the ruins of several windmills that the local population in ancient times brought their grain to be milled. Our next stop was the ruined mausoleum. It must have been very impressive upon its completion. There were a couple of plaques showing the structure and a model.
Next we went out of the city to the village of Gümüslük. This is a small fishing community beside a little bay with crystal clear water. It looked like the water one sees around Caribbean islands. The shoreline was lined with little cafés serving mainly seafood (of course). A few feet from the shore were trees that had trunks and limbs that were white, no leaves; instead they were adorned with pottery bells, gourds and lots of evil eyes, round glass discs with a black iris surrounded by blue and white circles. The symbol is found in many parts of the Mediterranean and it’s thought that if someone wears one of the amulets he can be protected from the malicious intent of another person. Someone told me later they were fennel trees. I have no idea if that's right.
Zeynep picked a restaurant and we sat at a table by the water and had lunch. Our driver is fasting for Ramadan so he didn’t join us. The restaurant was Ali Riza ' nui Yeri (at least I think it was). Once again I’m not sure what I ate except for sure there was a salad, olives, pickles, and shrimp sizzling in olive oil and herbs. There were a couple of other vegetables unlike anything I’ve eaten but it all tasted good. There was a lovely breeze blowing and we had a leisurely lunch.
When we finished we walked back up a hill to the parking lot where our van awaited and we headed back to Bodrum. Hilary, my British friend had asked if I saw any spice shops in my journey if I would get her some saffron. Zeynep knew of a spice shop on the way so we made a stop. The shop had dozens of big jars filled with all kinds of spices and dried herbs. If you’ve ever bought saffron at home, you know it’s expensive. I got a bag with probably three or four tablespoons of saffron threads for 18 Turkish lire, about $1.30!
We went back to the port then. It was close to 3 PM and I was ready to call it another day. Today was just a short hike, three and a half miles. I’m remembering now why I don’t really love cruises with a port every day. I need a vacation after my vacation. This isn't the most exciting report but it is what it is.
1 comment:
I looked again at your itinerary and I love the fact that you are visiting some smaller unknown ports. I agree that some sea days are needed along the trip! How is trivia? So glad all is well!
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