The night view of the Rialto Bridge from our room
A Venetian traffic jam near the Accademia
Today was a beautiful flying day. Our flight left a little late from Heathrow because the plane was delayed coming in from northern England. Once we got in the air the flight was smooth and we had beautiful views of the Dolomites and of Venice as we landed. This was the latest, both in day of the year and time of day , that we’ve come to Venice. The weather was picture perfect in my opinion. We had brilliant blue skies and temperature in the high 60’s. During the day with the sun out we had no need of a jacket. This evening it cooled down but was still comfortable with a windbreaker.
We shared a water taxi from the airport with our friends Joe and Mollye from near Lynchburg, VA. We’re all staying at the same hotel, the Al Ponte Antico. This is a small place with just nine rooms. Our room has a glorious view of the Rialto Bridge. We’ve stayed here before and the staff and proprietor remember and greet you by name. Matteo, Oliver, Armando and Bruno could not be more gracious hosts.They have a lovely terrace on the first floor (what we would consider the 2nd floor) where breakfast is served if the weather is fitting and where you can have a drink any time of day and watch the boats on the Grand Canal. It is so incredible to watch the traffic. In the morning all manner of small boats from UPS and FedEx to hearses and ambulances are delivering the goods and services needed to keep this water city alive. Boats deliver everything consumed here and as they unload on various canals, the items are delivered to their destinations by people with handcarts since there are no cars.
After checking in we began our wander around Venice. The place is packed with tourists! An interesting statistic we learned is that the city has 60,000 residents and receives an average of 60,000 visitors each day! It is truly a city within a city. Despite the crowds around the popular tourist sights, the place is as charming as we remembered. For the first time in a couple of visits we got lost and found ourselves on streets we hadn’t seen before. The variegated colors of the buildings, the sometimes exposed brickwork, the laundry hanging and the flower boxes in the windows combine to make beautiful vistas around every turn. There is something so appealing about the magnificent decay. As you walk along you see a palazzo that has been beautifully restored next to one that is ramshackle and moldering.
Tonight we ate at one of our favorites, the Osteria de Santa Marina. We’ve been there each time we’ve visited and the food and service have never disappointed us.
Tomorrow is another full day here and we shall decide in the morning what to do. We ‘ll just take the day as it comes.
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