We have one of my treasured sea days today so I need to catch up a little. I had a glorious day yesterday in Mahón, Menorca. It was sunny, but very blustery all day and I realized the night before that I'd never been there so I took a tour. I was confusing it with another of the Balearics, the island of Ibiza. Anyway, I pick my tours by what time they leave in the morning (not early being a prime consideration) and this one left at 9:30.
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Mahón perched above our dock |
We set out with our German guide Angelika on a pretty comprehensive tour of the island. We were docked in Mahón, the capital of the island and the site of one of the world's largest natural harbors. It's about three miles long and 3000 feet wide. The island itself was named by the Romans and means "little island" as opposed to yesterday's island Mallorca, meaning major. Menorca is the second largest of the Balearics and has a population of about 100,000. Like many of the islands in this part of the world it has been conquered and owned by a succession of civilizations. The earliest people left many stone megaliths around the island, structures similar to the kinds of stones one sees at Stonehenge. In more recent history the island belonged to the Minoans, Phoenicians, Romans, Carthaginians, Moors, and eventually in 1713 it became a British possession. That lasted for the next 80 or so years until the British lost control to the Spanish and French. In the mid-19th century the British were allowed to return some forces here but they didn't rule any longer. That's a very brief history of a place that has so much history.
We headed out from Mahón to our first stop, the fishing village of Fornells on the north coast. Despite the fact that it's an island there were actually few communities built along the shoreline, most were inland. Can you guess why? Towns on the coast were too tempting for pirates and brigands, so the inhabitants built inland a little to avoid being pillaged and marauded frequently. Fornells is a charming village with white-washed buildings sitting around a small natural harbor. There wasn't a great deal to see but it was what I think everyone would call cute.
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The promenade along the waterfront in Fornells |
We boarded our bus and headed to the highest point on the island, Monte Toro (the Bull Mountain) where there are a Spanish version of the Christ the Redeemer statue and a chapel called the Chapel of the Virgin of the Bull. It has to do with an old legend about this place. Legend has it that some early monks wanted to climb up the mountain (the summit is about 1000 ft. above sea level). It was a hard climb and at some point they came to a tall and sturdy rock wall which the monks were unable to breech. Along came a very big bull and he rammed the wall creating a passageway for them. Hence, it became Monte Toro and in the chapel at the summit is the Madonna del Toro, a statue of the Virgin Mary ( holding the baby Jesus not a bull). The view from the top was beautiful. Menorca, at least at this time of year, looks quite lush. I should mention that the road to the summit afforded us a very harrowing ride. It's narrow with many hairpin turns. On the way up we had a minor fender bender with a car going down. No injuries, but boy, there sure was a lot of paperwork exchanged between our driver and the car driver.
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Christ the Redeemer at the summit |
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The Madonna of the Bull in the Chapel of the same name |
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This and the next are views from the top |
We left the mountain and drove to a resort town on the southeast coast named Binibeca. It is a village built to be a vacation resort with a Greek theme. All the buildings are white-washed and except for the roofs which are also white tile, I could imagine being in Santorini. (There many roofs are blue.) We walked through the little town and I found the architecture very charming. Many of the fence posts at the gates to the houses were topped with stylized pottery animals, especially cats and fish, in a variety of colors. Many of the houses had names and one of the ones I liked best was 'The House of the Rising Sun."
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A typical building in Binibeca |
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The House of the Rising Sun |
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One of the gate guardians |

Our final stop was across the harbor from Mahón, the La Mola Fortress. The headland at the entrance to the huge harbor had a large fortress preceding the current one. It had been destroyed and fallen into disrepair. In the mid-19th century when Menorca had already been part of the Spanish Kingdom for decades, tensions in Europe and the Mediterranean ran high and the British told the Spanish that if Spain didn't build a fortress to guard the harbor and the trade routes leading from Europe to Algeria and Morocco, they would. So in 1848 the Spaniards began construction with the official name being the fortress of Isabella II, the Spanish queen. The work continued for decades. In 1896 technical advances in gun design made the fortress obsolete so construction began on a series of coastal batteries along the cliff tops so that more modern artillery pieces could be put in place. The whole fortress area covers a vast expanse which cost an enormous amount of money and which has so far never been used for coastal defense. I forgot to mention earlier that Menorca has some splendid cliffs along the coastline. While in Binibeca I could look through some of the pathways leading to the sea and catch glimpses of waves crashing against rocks and cliffs. I find shorelines like that fascinating.
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The La Mola Fortress |
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The Main Gate |
We got back to the ship close to 3:30 tired and hungry. The tour didn't include even a snack and we cruisers are used to eating frequently. I grabbed a salad and then hustled to to trivia. We are doing marvelously!
It was formal night so I got gussied up and went to a table hosted by the Chief Engineer. He is a very nice looking Rumanian who doesn't talk much, but it was a pleasant table. After dinner it was too early for the show so I went up to the Observation Bar to have an after-dinner Bailey's. I sat at the bar next to a delightful couple from Vienna with whom I struck up a conversation. We talked until nearly midnight. It was interesting and educational. I am always fascinated to hear what people from other countries think about the events all over the world. We wound up agreeing that whether in Austria or the United States it's virtually impossible to get unbiased news. I hope I have another opportunity to spend time with Tom and Eve from Vienna.
This morning I got up way too early because I was told I had to watch us sail away from Mahón ( we spent the night there). I was out on deck by 7 AM and it was worth it. It is quite a beautiful place to sail from with the fortress on one side and the town of Mahón perched on the cliff on the other side. Thank goodness it's a sea day and I don't have to do much of anything but play trivia.
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Sailaway from Mahón |
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This red house sits overlooking the harbor and was once the place Admiral Nelson lived while he commanded the naval forces here |
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The ramparts of La Mol |
So that's the report for now. It's Good Friday. One has a tendency to forget what day it is, but someone reminded me of it this morning. Where has this year gone?
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I had a visitor from the animal kingdom when I came back to my cabin after breakfast. |