Today we sailed into New York Harbor on a beautiful, sunny autumn day. The last time I sailed into this place my family was returning from six years living in Madrid, Spain. In other words, a long, long time ago. I wanted to make sure that I was up to see it, so as usual I didn’t sleep well despite having my alarm set. The captain told us the night before that we were scheduled to sail under the Verrazzano Bridge at 7:15 AM and by the Statue of Liberty at 7:45 AM. At 7 AM I went up to the Observation Bar toward the bow of the Quest and there were already plenty of people there, but I found a seat. There were also Virgin and Bloody Mary’s, Mimosas, and little pastries and mini-bagels with lox.
There’s an outdoor walkway around the Observation Bar and I walked out there a few times but it was freezing cold with a stiff wind as we sailed along. I was able to take this picture just before the sun popped up and I thought the colors were pretty nice. I’ve really got a thing for sunrises and sunsets. I know I’ve said it before but I can’t help repeating myself.
As the sky brightened in the distance I could see the Verrazzano Bridge through a little morning haze. Beyond I could just make out the city skyline, still very obscure. When I sailed in here in 1964 the bridge was under construction but not yet open. Officially named the Verrazzano-Narrows bridge it connects Brooklyn with Staten Island, two of New York City’s boroughs. There’s an interesting story (at least to me about the name of the bridge). It’s named after Giovanni da Verrazzano, the first European explorer to enter what’s now New York harbor. When the contract was signed to build the bridge it specified the “Verrazano-Narrows Bridge” with just one “Z.” (There was controversy about naming it after him with other suggestions being made, but the contract specified the name I just wrote.) The name Verrazzano has two “z’s” and so in 2018 a bill was passed in New York State to change the name. As a cost-saving measure old signs with one z would be retained and only new ones would show the corrected spelling. As someone who wonders about what governments spend time on, I can’t help but speculate on what amount of time and at what cost, the change was made.
A few facts about the bridge to keep them in my mind. The bridge is a suspension bridge with a central span of 4260 feet between two towers which are nearly 700 feet tall. The bridge has two decks carrying a total of thirteen lanes of traffic. Because of the height of the towers and the span between them the designers had to take into account the curvature of the earth; thus the towers are not parallel to each other. The towers are 1.625 inches further apart at their tops than at their bases. Okay, that’s more information than a traveler needs to know about the bridge; I just thought it was interesting.
|
Manhattan really does have a beautiful skyline. |
As we passed under the bridge and entered New York Harbor, anticipation grew because our next sight would be the Statue of Liberty. As I said it was a practically cloudless sunny day by now and there she was beginning to loom up as we sailed along. There is something very moving about seeing this grand lady, a symbol of our freedom, standing watch over the gateway for so many people who have come to this country. My Italian grandfather saw this as a teenage boy arriving from a little village in southern Italy. My German war bride mother some 65 or so years later saw her as she arrived in a strange country with an infant in her arms (me). I can’t help but wonder what emotions they must have felt. I won’t write anything about the Statue because I think all of us have read at least a little about the wonderful gift from France to commemorate our centennial.
|
Isn't she lovely? |
|
She deserves two shots at least. |
In the distance now there was the skyline of Manhattan. Towering above the other buildings with the sunlight gleaming off its sides is One World Trade Center, also known as the Freedom Tower. When I last arrived by ship in this harbor, the original World Trade Center hadn’t yet been built and so I never saw those buildings from the sea; I had only seen them from afar on a couple of land visits to New York or from the air when flying into one of the airports around here. I decided a couple of days ago that instead of taking a tour to the Statue and Ellis Island, my original plan, that I wanted to take a tour that allowed me to see Ground Zero. That involved a driving tour of the sights of Manhattan so that’s what I did.
We docked, had a face-to-face encounter with Customs and Border Patrol and then we were off on our short, whirlwind tour. We had a great guide named Darrell and a fantastic bus driver named Eric. (As an aside, anyone who is a tour bus driver in NYC in my opinion must be either a saint or certifiable.) Darrell was a very tall black man who could make a living as a stand-up comic. We are docked in the Hudson on the West Side of NYC I think around 52nd Street. Our drive took us east toward Central Park. It’s Sunday and a beautiful day so it’s pretty crowded in town. There’s something else going on here today which makes it even more crowded but I’ll tell you more about that later. As we drove along Darrell pointed out various notable buildings. Being in a bus you don’t always get a good view because inevitably everything seems to be on the side you’re not on. I did get a photo of a famous diner which the guide told us is the last of what used to be many Greek diners in Manhattan and this place called Gray’s Papaya where people go to get great hot dogs of all things.
|
West Side Diner |
|
Gray's Papaya which Darrell said is a great place to get hot dogs |
|
Speaking of hot dogs ... |
I think we were supposed to stop for a little stroll in Central Park, but traffic was very messed up and there was apparently no hope of parking. We drove by the door in the Dakota apartment building where John Lennon was killed. We saw the Plaza Hotel which has appeared in so many movies and old ornate mansions which were the homes of the tycoons and industrial barons of the Gilded Age in the early 1900’s. As we drove down Fifth Avenue we passed St. Patrick’s Cathedral and a few blocks later we were able to drive by Trump Tower. The street in front of that building is lined with big dump trucks to protect from a car bomb or suicide bomber from approaching. I was on the wrong side of the bus so I only got this pretty bad photo of the building, but I’m including it anyway.
|
Just to prove I did see it |
|
The Plaza Hotel on the corner of 5th Avenue |
Just past Trump Tower we turned on to a side street and got out close to Rockefeller Center. We had about 45 minutes to walk around and look at the buildings, shops and skating rink all of which have been featured in so many films. I don’t go to many movies anymore but it was wonderful seeing places from some of my old favorites. The FAO Schwartz store was right on one corner of the Plaza and who can forget Tom Hanks playing the floor piano in Big. Rockefeller Center is a complex of 19 commercial buildings built in the 1930’s. It’s the home of many of the broadcasting companies. In the limited time I had I walked around and took pictures of some of the artwork on the buildings. I took the elevator down to the skating rink and watched the skaters enjoying themselves and got a good picture of the gilded statue of Prometheus. I have to confess that while I enjoyed seeing the sights, I didn’t enjoy the crowds. I’m too much of a small city woman now.
|
30 Rockefeller Center |
|
The inscription over the main door. We could use a little of these I think. |
|
Prometheus himself |
|
FAO Schwartz - Where's Tom Hanks playing the piano? |
We headed back west and drove through Times Square and past the Theater District of Broadway. Did you know that Broadway is the longest street in New York state? It runs from the southern tip of Manhattan all the way to Albany, the capital of the state. That’s a bit of trivia to be filed away for the future. We continued down toward the tip of Manhattan and things got increasingly congested. As we traveled down 7th Avenue, there were lots of police cars with blue lights flashing and side streets barricaded. We were approaching Madison Square Garden where Trump was holding a rally tonight. As we got closer and looked on both sides of the bus, every side street was full of thousands of people as far as we could see wearing red ball caps and carrying Trump signs. In front of the Garden the area was packed with people wearing MAGA hats waiting to be admitted for the rally later in the day. I was told that the venue seats about 20,000 and when the tickets to the rally came available they were “sold out” in less than an hour.
|
A couple of the electronic billboards in Times Squares |
|
These were just a few of the 20,000 who had tickets and were close to the entrance to Madison Square Garden close to 90,000 were outside the perimeter just to be close to the rally. |
Proceeding downtown we passed through several well-known neighborhoods, including Greenwich Village, Soho and Tribeca (which stands for Triangle below Canal Street. We passed Wall Street and the New York Federal Reserve Building. Eventually we came to a stopping point from which we could walk to Ground Zero in the shadow of the new Freedom Tower. We had enough time to walk down around the pools that are on the sites of the Twin Towers. The perimeters have a sort of railing on which are inscribed the names of those who perished in the attack including first responders and passengers on the planes that crashed. In the center of the pools is a deeper area into which water cascades down. Around the sidewalks are trees which were planted when the memorial was built except for one that’s fenced in and is a survivor tree, the only tree that made it through the collapse of the buildings. Across the street is the firehouse of Ladder Co. 10 of the NY Fire Department. On the wall of that building there is one area that has the names and photographs of every firemen who was lost, including Stephen Siller whose family founded the Tunnel to Towers Foundation to help families of first responders and service people lost or severely injured. The rest of the wall is covered with a bronze sculpture showing the firemen working during the efforts to rescue people before the buildings collapsed. The whole place was very moving. I guess that I like everyone else who was alive that day will never forget the images we saw and the horror of it.
|
One World Trade Center AKA the Freedom Tower
|
|
The North Pool on the spot of the North Tower |
|
The NY Firefighters who died |
After we reboarded the bus we headed back toward the pier. Along the way we passed a place along the river where we could see people just for fun trying to be trapeze artists. It was some kind of a sports complex with a football field in the building below the trapeze place. Our driver Eric had to navigate around lots of closed streets which of course caused a lot of congestion on the streets that were open. We got back to the ship about mid-afternoon after a quick but interesting tour. It met my expectations because my primary purpose was to see Ground Zero.
Darrell told us some information which I found quite interesting. There is an awful lot of vacant office space in Manhattan. Many companies that shut down during Covid or which began working remotely have not returned to the city. With fewer people coming into the city to work, shops and restaurants have suffered. More than 6,000 restaurants in NY have not reopened. The new Freedom Tower is having trouble getting tenants. Businesses are afraid to rent there because they are afraid it would be an obvious target. (I can’t say I really blame them.) Finally, he told us what the average rent per month for a one-bedroom apartment is and it floored me. The average rent for a one-bedroom apartment is $4250 per month. If you have a car the average cost to park it is $800 per month.
The Quest spent the night in New York, but I stayed onboard because I’m a chicken and didn’t want to wander anywhere at night alone. We had a marvelous speaker in the evening and actually I wouldn’t have missed him for the world. He was Walter Isaacson. He has had a long career in journalism and is the author of a number of biographies of people like Benjamin Franklin, Einstein, and Steve Jobs. His latest was Elon Musk. I bought the hardcover book the day it was released (the first time I’d bought an actual paper book in years) and thought it was the most fascinating read. Isaacson was given virtually unfettered access to Musk for close to two years and even did things like go to board meetings with him. Anyway, it was so interesting listening to him talk about the traits that these very brilliant people share in common and which allow them to “think out of the box.” Had I known he would be on the ship I would have brought my copy and tried to get him to sign it. Oh well. Next time.